A Brief History of Rogues

From Footpad to Thief

Ah, the rogue. Without one in the party, who would be there to pick the stubborn lock, probe the dungeon hallway for concealed pits, and lend a hand by backstabbing the party’s antagonist?

In terms of archetypes, D&D has largely promoted four major player character roles: Bruiser (those who fight), Blaster (those who spellcast), Healer, and Sneaker (see Sibling Rivalry: Take Two). With the release of this month’s Complete Scoundrel, we look back at this fourth role, examining how rogues have evolved throughout the game.
1st Edition

“The profession of thief is not dishonorable, albeit is neither honorable nor highly respected in some quarters.”

In 1st edition, the thief (and assassin sub-class) were given specialized access to certain abilities: “The primary functions of a thief are: 1) picking pockets, 2) opening locks, 3) finding/removing traps, 4) moving silently, and 5) hiding in shadows.”

These abilities were oftentimes essential to the success of a party, and could mean the difference between life and death. Who else could pick the lock necessary to get past a dungeon door, or disarm the poison needle trap guarding the villain’s treasure? The elaborate Thief Function Table (pg. 28 of the PHB) listed percentile chances for a thief to accomplish these principle functions; the table also listed bonuses and penalties depending on a thief’s race (dwarven thieves excelled at opening locks and removing traps, while half-orcs were less adept at picking pockets and reading languages). Every thief also hoped for the coveted 18 Dexterity, as high scores further increased their percentile chances. (One drawback? At 30gp, it often proved difficult for 1st level thieves to afford their requisite “thieves’ picks and tools” from the Miscellaneous Equipment and Items list.)

In addition to the party’s locksmith, other abilities augmented thieves’ sneaky nature: “Secondary functions of a thief are: 1) listening at doors to detect sounds behind them, 2) ascending and descending vertical surfaces such as walls, and 3) backstabbing those who happen upon the thief in the performance of his or her profession.” Ah, the backstab—providing a +4 to hit and increasing damage (double at levels 1-4, up to quintuple at 13-16), this allowed the thief a valuable niche in combat… provided their move silently and hide in shadows abilities could maneuver them into place.

A few additional and unique functions even further rounded out the thief: “Additional abilities which accrue to thieves are: 1) ability to speak “Thieves’ Cant”, 2) at 4th level the ability to read languages (such as for the assistance in reading instructions or treasure maps), and 3) at 10th level the ability to decipher magical writings and scrolls of all sorts, excluding those of clerical, but not druidic nature.” Plus, the 1st edition DMG even provided thieves the ability to set traps, using their finding/removing traps percentage.

With exclusive abilities, a potent backstab, and the opportunity at higher levels to utilize magic scrolls, the thief was a highly desirable role to fill—even if limited to leather armor, and a club, dagger, dart, sling or sword (short, broad or long) for their arsenal.

2nd Edition

“Rogues are people who feel that the world (and everyone in it) somehow owes them a living. They get by day by day, living in the highest style they can afford and doing as little work as possible. The less they have to toil and struggle like everyone else (while maintaining a comfortable standard of living), the better off they think they are. While this attitude is neither evil nor cruel, it does not foster a good reputation. Many a rogue has a questionable past or a shady background he’d prefer was left uninvestigated.

“Thieves come in all sizes and shapes, ready to live off the fat of the land by the easiest means possible. In some ways they are the epitome of roguishness.”

By 2nd edition, thieves had become part of the Rogue family, which also included bards. Assassins had disappeared as a separate class, later revised as a kit in The Complete Thief’s Handbook.

Although similar to their 1st edition versions, 2nd edition thieves now shared out some of their exclusive abilities: 2nd edition rangers could hide in shadows and move silently; bards could climb walls, detect noise, pick pockets, and read languages. Interestingly, while adjustments to these abilities were still made for Dexterity, race, and now armor as well, thieves were given 60 discretionary points they could spread across their percentile chances, along with 30 additional points per level, allowing them to focus on the thieving abilities they most wished to specialize (thus, orcs could improve their pick pocket chances, while dwarves could further specialize in locks and traps).

Their arsenal had also increased, ever slightly, to leather, studded leather, padded or elven chainmail armor, and the club, dagger, dart, hand crossbow (!), knife, lasso (?), short bow, staff, sling and broad, long and short sword. At 10th level, they could also now read both magical and (finally) clerical scrolls. There remained a flat 25% chance to misunderstand and even reverse such scrolls, however (hinted at, but not quite defined in 1st edition); in 2nd, it explicitly stated that such a reversal was almost always detrimental to the thief and his party: “It could be as simple as casting the reverse of the given spell or as complex as a foul-up on a fireball scroll, causing the ball of flame to be centered on the thief instead of its intended target.”
From Bravo to Grandfather: A Briefer History of the Assassin

For a short period in the game’s history (namely, through 1st edition), the assassin enjoyed the distinction of being its own class, a sub-class of the thief. Oddly enough, when appearing in the Blackmoor supplement, assassins could only be Human in race and always neutral in alignment; in the 1st edition PHB, this second requirement was changed to “Assassins are evil in alignment (perforce, as the killing of humans and other intelligent life forms for the purposes of profit is basically held to be the antithesis of weal).”

In many aspects, the assassin presented an even more powerful version of the thief: they could employ a shield while the thief could not, thus gaining a slight edge in protection, as well make use of any weapon. Plus, the assassin could implement poison, while every other class either stated “never” or else gave a question mark in regards to its legality. Perhaps the most powerful facet of the assassin, however, was their melee prowess. They attacked as thieves, could backstab, and—if they surprised a victim—could attack on the Assassination table (from the DMG), with success equaling outright death.

Assassins also had access to thief abilities, albeit at two levels lower; plus, they could learn alignment languages, spy, and employ disguise. In addition, they gained experience and fees for their assassination based on their level and the level of their victim… much of which led to certain difficulties in playing a 1st edition assassin, as their abilities crafted an adventurer that best operating independently from the rest of the party. After all, how inconspicuous could a disguised assassin be with a fully armored fighter on the right and a chanting cleric on the left? Yet how could it perform an assassination or complete a spying mission on its own, without the rest of the party cheated out of the chance to participate and gain experience themselves? If the assassin had a sub-role all its own, it was not always one easily slotted into a standard D&D session.

Beyond thematic difficulties, mechanical restrictions further balanced out the assassin’s powerful abilities. To carry out an assassination, the DMG implied that the element of surprise alone was not enough, but that the assassin needed to present a carefully detailed plan of action (“a complete plan of how the deed is to be done should be prepared by the player involved, and the precautions, if any, of the target character should be compared against the plan”). Even the assassin’s special use of poison ran the risk of being noticed by others; all non-assassins had a cumulative 10% chance per round of noticing a poisoned weapon, which would result in either a cry for the city watch, outright attacking the assassin, or both.

In 2nd edition “the idea of an assassin, a hired killer, has been divorced from any particular character class.” Instead, the assassin kit was developed for The Complete Thief’s Handbook, which required or recommended many of their former skills, now added to the secondary skill list open to all characters (disguise, voice mimicry, and gather intelligence). Poison use and identification occupied a great deal of the assassin’s kit description, which now codified how an assassin slipped a dose into a subject’s drink (now using the pick pocket percentage at +5%), as opposed to 1st edition’s statement that the assassin “detail exactly when, where, and how the poisoning will be done. The DM will then adjudicate the action.”

Likewise, while some playtest versions of 3rd edition retried the assassin as a separate class, it ended up a roguish prestige class, given abilities that met the original theme of the assassin while better facilitating its utility within a party: poison use, death attacks, and hiding in plain sight (for which even the assassin has limits: “He cannot, however, hide in his own shadow”).
3rd Edition

“Rogues have little in common with one another. Some are stealthy thieves. Others are silver-tongued tricksters. Still others are scouts, infiltrators, spies, diplomats, or thugs. What they do share is versatility, adaptability, and resourcefulness. In general, rogues are skilled at getting at what others don’t want them to get: entrance into a locked treasure vault, safe passage past a deadly trap, secret battle plans, a guard’s trust, or some random person’s pocket money.”

By 3rd edition, the “rogue” had become not just the name of the family but of the specific class itself—and for good reason. As stated in their description above, rogues had never truly been limited to “thieving.” Rather, they played a many-faceted role within a given party.

Fitting with the modular nature of 3rd edition, rogues no longer possess exclusive use of their former abilities; instead, Decipher Script, Disable Device, Open Lock and the like have become class skills for rogues, who are given a high amount of skill points to spend upon them. Likewise, the concept of backstabbing evolved into the more mechanically sound (and universally applied) flanking—but which rogues are able to take better advantage of with their sneak attack bonuses. In addition, the rogue’s class abilities have retained the flavor of their sneaky nature, with evasion and uncanny dodge; plus, their trapfinding means rogues can use Search to find traps of DC 20 or higher, and Disable Device to disarm magical traps.

Complete Scoundrel looks to further expand this fourth role of the game, providing ways for every class to practice a bit of roguishness, not to mention providing new tricks and tricky gear for the rogues themselves (who wouldn’t want a rust monster wand?). For example, every character could use a little luck: the Victor’s Luck feat allows characters to reroll critical threat confirmations, and the Better Lucky Than Good feat means that natural 1s can be treated as natural 20s!

“As personas for characters, scoundrels represent a style of play rather than a class. They’re the sneaks, the cheats, the bluffers, and the opportunists. They use improvisation and imagination to gain an advantage, exploiting a weakness or a hidden benefit in even the worst situation,” from Complete Scoundrel pg. 4, which continues philosophically: “Anyone can play a scoundrel.”

A Campanile Dice Tower

For those who enjoy dice towers (for example, basswood, laser etched, or round medieval), it is time once again to show the design, construction, and painting of a miniature tower made with plaster blocks cast from Hirst Arts silicone molds. The model shown in the photo is a six story dice tower standing nearly 20 inches (50 cm) high. That's a 15mm horseman standing in the doorway. The tower is painted with latex and acrylic paints and protected with a clear matte finish.

What is a dice tower? It is a structure designed to roll dice such that the dice are properly randomized. It eliminates the possibility that a player can cheat on their rolls. Additionally, it serves as a focal point where all players know to look and gather dice for the next roll.

However, like many functional objects, one can go beyond mere utility into the world of beauty and art. This dice tower is made to look like an Italian bell tower from the 14th century - a campanile. These tall towers were often made of brick, with square bodies, multiple windows, terraced or open floors plans to allow the sounds of the bells to escape, and topped with red terra cotta tile roofs. Famous campaniles include the Leaning Tower of Pisa Torre Pendete, the Campanile of San Marco in Venice, and the Campanile by Giotto in Florence. Today, many American universities have campanile style bell towers as focal points of the campus such as Sather Tower at the University of California at Berkeley and the Memorial Carillion at Iowa State University.

The Campanile card game
The Campanile card game
My first awareness of the word campanile came from the 1996 Blatz card game Campanile by Hanno and Willfried Kuhn. In this game, players construct the towers by placing one card per turn on one of five towers. Additionally, betting chips are placed at the base of the tower. At the game end the betting chips are scored based on the heights of the tower. I was struck by the beauty of the artwork by Franz Vohwinkel and the unique architectural styles of the five towers. The game, now out of print, is fun as well, and I think it captures the flavor of Italian villages building ever higher towers to boast the wealth and beauty of their town.

The only drawback to the game is that it uses no dice or dice towers.

Initial Brick Layout
Initial brick layout
As with my round medieval dice tower, this tower is also made with plaster-cast bricks made from Hirst Arts Fantasy Architecture molds. This tower is made from just two molds, the small brick mold (#250) and the clay tile roof mold (#230). Once purchased, the molds can be filled again and again with plaster to make as many bricks necessary to make any sort of building.

This photo shows the initial layout of one of the two windowed walls. Each window consists of two arches and 6 other decorative bricks to form the outline of the window. The photo also shows two bricks in each window to maintain the window brick spacing. Then regular bricks from the mold are placed to put three rows of bricks above and below each window. Similarly, one and a half bricks are placed between the windows and on the left and right side of the windows to provide the vertical spacing. The edges of the wall are left with an interlocking pattern so that each wall will mate with the other perpendicular walls of that floor. Walls made of Lego bricks help square the walls and make sure they are compact and straight.

The plaster is a special type similar to the material that dentists use to cast tooth impressions. The brand is Excalibur Castle Stone which I ordered from Game Plan Games for about $38 for a 25 pound box. This should last for many projects. Although the Hirst Arts Site has many hints for casting bubble free blocks, I will admit that I am not the best brick caster. The Hirst site recommends pre-wetting the molds and then scraping the excess after 6 minutes. I take a short cut and add a few drops of Jet Dry brand detergent to my plaster water to help break the water surface tension. I also scrap the excess plaster immediately in order to save time. Yes, my technique is not as high quality, but I don't think it is very noticeable on larger projects such as this.

Mass production mold
Mass production mold
After just one wall, I realized this project was going to use a lot of bricks. In order to help with the construction time, I decided to make my own mold of important subassemblies. This photo shows several new shapes to speed the assembly of my campaniles dice tower.

First of all, there are two complete window assemblies. Then there are some square assemblies of one full brick and two half bricks to fill in the center gaps. On the left and right sides are mirror images of a three brick assembly (two full bricks and one half) to help with the interlocking wall edges. Above and below the windows are some five brick assemblies to help fill in the top and bottom of the wall. And finally, the bottom has three decorative arches to help with the ornate top floor of the tower. The idea is that one casting of this mold with a few spare bricks would make a complete wall piece.

These pieces are glued into a mold form made from a 89 cent clear plastic tray from the Container Store. They come in all sizes and are meant to help organize your kitchen cutlery drawer.

Cast mold results
Cast mold results
This photo shows my mold with a fresh pouring of plaster. The mold is made from high strength silicone rubber from MicroMark. Don't get the flimsy one to one silicone, as I've used this before and it tears easily after a few castings. The high strength 10 to 1 mixing silicone is better. My mold is brand-new looking after about 20 castings and should be good for about 100 castings. However the material is not as strong and seems like it will tear long before a Hirst Arts mold. Additionally, the Hirst molds seems to be a little slicker and cleans up more easily with water.

In this photo, I've already scraped the excess plaster off this pouring with a 3 inch (7 cm) spatula. The little bit of excess plaster is brittle and will break away from the pieces easily. I will harvest a new set of bricks in about 30 minutes.

A completed cube with ramp
A completed cube with ramp
This photo shows a few nearly completed floors of the campanile. You can see that each floor is nearly a cube. There is a bass wood ramp in each floor to help toss the dice. The ramp is glued at an angle of about 60 degrees up from horizontal and is situated such that it crosses no windows. The side walls of the floors only have one window and the diagonal of the ramp crosses the part of the wall with no window.

Additionally the four corners of the top of each floor has a brick to help mate the floor with the one above. These key bricks are slightly out of focus here. Since the cross section of this campanile dice tower is square, you can rotate each floor to have the ramps point in different directions. You can have the ramps all point back to front, or alternate, or point in a death spiral. I have noticed no additional randomizing effect from different combinations.

Roof details
Roof details
This photo details the campanile decorative top floor and roof. The top floor starts with a open square of bricks three rows deep. This square terrace is visible at the bottom of the photo. The square is supported by 32 decorative arches, 8 for each wall of the campanile. Together the floor and decorative arches allow the decorative top to mate with any of the five cubic dice tower floors.

On top of the terrace floor, there are 4 corner posts, each post being two bricks square and 9 bricks high. Between the square corner posts, decorative bricks form two arches so that there are two top arches visible from each side of the campanile, much like a loggia (decorative and airy hallway) seen in many Mediterranean buildings.

Topping the arches are the clay tile roof bricks, Normally, a campanile roof, or any Renaissance tower roof, culminates in a point. However, here the point is truncated to leave an opening for the dice to enter the top of the tower. As shown in the picture, sometimes it takes a Dremel rotary tool to shape the tiles to receive the barrel tile corner pieces.

Disassembled pieces
Disassembled pieces
This photo shows all the completed pieces of the campanile dice tower. I've followed the fieldstone painting instructions given on the Hirst Arts site consisting of three layers: a dark brown undercoat, a pumpkin colored medium brown middle coat, and a light beige highlight coat. Additionally, the clay tile roof is painted an orangy-red terra cotta color and the decorative window bricks are an orangy brown.

The paint colors were derived from paint sample chips from Bruce Hirst. I brought these to Home Depot hardware store where they scanned the colors and mixed up a quart each of Behr interior latex paints - much cheaper than Vallejo, Citadel, or any hobby acrylic. I wish the highlight color were a bit more limestone looking. Namely I wish the highlight had more yellow to it as I've seen Italian limestone often have. However, perhaps the scanner at Home Depot is slightly off. For the next building, I will mix my own limestone color.

Also, notice the dice tower tray made with some flagstone floor tile bricks (mold #260). I've painted each flagstone a slightly different shade to give it some variation.

Bell detail
Bell detail
Now that you have read this far, I will reveal some details of the campanile that only a true dice tower enthusiast will appreciate. On each floor of the tower, a tiny bell has been installed to make a pleasing ringing as the dice are rolled. Each floor has a tuned bell giving a different note. The whole reason for making interchangeable floors on this dice tower was to allow the user to rearrange the bells to make any tune using the four bell notes. My favorite tune is the ding-dong, ding-dong of Big Ben at the Houses of Parliment in London. (Obviously this tiny tower cannot compete with that one on resonance or volume.)

As you see in the photo, each bell is a small steel bar that has been cut to length and suspended from its end. During the design phase I considered small round bells, but I could not find a miniature tuned set. Additionally, I had to come up with a bell that could easily be struck by cascading dice without trapping any dice against the walls of the tower. I initially purchased a child's xylophone with steel bars, but these did not produce a good sound when cut to fit the tower. Finally, with a two hour visit to a wind chime store I selected a set that rung nicely. Look for copper or steel and not aluminum bells. These bars were suspended from scale ropes that allowed the bells to ring and swing without trapping any dice.

Unhallowed Preview 7

Occasionally, we feel the need to revisit past miniatures. Sometimes it's because we want to see a creature updated, such as the Hill Giants we included in War Drums (after the first introduction of the Hill Giant in the Archfiends set). Other times, we see a specific role in the skirmish game that we'd like to provide new options to fill. We know that certain types of creatures are common to a majority of D&D games, and we also know that we continue to get new players involved in D&D Miniatures, either as skirmishers, role-players, or both. We want to provide those new players with those standard options for their games.

This week we look at both types of updating with an Uncommon and a Rare miniature from the upcoming Unhallowed expansion.

Vampire Dire Wolf

It's been a couple years since the Dire Wolf made its debut in Giants of Legend. As one of the more commonly used monsters in the D&D game, we knew that we'd need to provide a new version. The name of the miniature might include Vampire, but that doesn't mean it wouldn't fit in perfectly as a normal Dire Wolf.

Players frequently comment that they'd like monsters that normally appear in groups to be easier to collect. Because Dire Wolves are typically pack animals, we followed this logic and made an effort to include this version of the Dire Wolf as an Uncommon miniature instead of the previous Dire Wolf's Rare status. We can't do that with every creature that might appear in groups, but rest assured that such concepts are definitely considered throughout our process.

In the skirmish game, the Vampire Dire Wolf provides a very fast, undead beatstick with a solid attack at +14 for 25 magic damage. Its Damage Reduction and Life Drain abilities extend its hit points beyond the seemingly low starting number of 75. Throw in a couple of resistances to cold and electricity and one attempt at a Stunning Attack (our way of implementing the wolf's trip attack), and you have a serviceable hitter in your Chaotic Evil warband. Undead makes it Fearless, which means its level of 6 doesn't hurt it so much, though it tends to run off the board when faced with a Turn Undead attempt -- keep a few expendable undead in front of it when facing enemy clerics.

Werewolf Lord

Presented as an upgraded werewolf in the Monster Manual, the Werewolf Lord is the result of adding a dire wolf into the lycanthrope template. He also fits well into the horror pseudo-theme represented in the Unhallowed set. This miniature is Large and in charge, representing the hybrid form of the creature, ready to rip open his next unsuspecting victim.

Mechanically, the Werewolf Lord revisits one of Chaotic Evil's more popular (in its day) hitter/commander combos -- the Eye of Gruumsh (from the second D&D minis expansion, Dragoneye). Like the Eye, the Werewolf Lord is a melee monster, with two attacks at +15 that can each deal 25 damage. They are both fast, moving up to 8 squares, though the Large size of the Werewolf Lord will limit its maneuverability. The Eye had Immune Flanking, but this lycanthrope has DR 5 and a few extra hit points. The Eye's popular commander effect (orcs get +5 damage) is probably still better than the Werewolf Lord's, which gives its own Bloodlust to animals and shapechangers. Because of that difference, the two suggest slightly different warband builds. With Blind-Fight and Cleave, the Werewolf Lord is distinctly better than the Eye in a toe-to-toe fight -- one could say about 20% better, because that's how much more he costs to put in your warband. Despite these differences, I think the Werewolf provides a slightly different look at the same core concept upon which the Eye of Gruumsh was built.

Will the days of the beater-commander return? Time will tell, but one thing that is certain is that Chaotic Evil has another intriguing choice. Oh, yeah -- Bloodlust makes a creature Fearless if it destroys an enemy with a melee attack. In case you were wondering.

Next week, we'll highlight a possession that should really grip you.

http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/mi/20070125a

Beat the Bartender

The origins of this game are unknown, but two versions are played. The first version, known as Beat the Bartender, is usually played in local taverns. The second, known as Beat This!, is played mostly by orcs.

Beat the bartender is usually played using 2d6 (although any two dice can be used: 2d10, 2d20, etc.). Bets are placed between the players and the bartender before the dice are thrown. The bartender rolls the two dice and scores the total of the two numbers thrown. Subsequent players roll the dice and have to score a higher total to win their bet. The bartender wins in the case of tied scores.

Beat This!

In Beat This!, one player takes the role of leader. The game is played with two dice against the leader. Bets are placed between the players and the leader before the dice are thrown. The leader rolls two dice and scores the total of the two numbers thrown. Subsequent players roll the dice and have to score a higher total to win their bet. The leader wins in the case of tied scores. After each round, the role of leader changes to the player with the lowest total score.

Orcs often have trouble finding two matching dice and sometimes play the game with two or even three dice of varying sides.

This game requires two or three dice of varying sides (d4 through d12). This game is based on the dice game known as High Dice, also known as Two Dice Klondike, Bingo and Beat the Bank.

Backgammon is Thought to be the Oldest Game in the World

Backgammon is thought to be the oldest game in the world, and archaeologists have found backgammon sets that date from as long ago as 3,000 BC. It is a classic game of luck combined with strategy, as you must roll dice and then choose how best to move. The great thing about backgammon is that the rules are simple to explain, but mastering the game can take a lifetime. Unlike chess, the game is also quick to pick up and play, with games often lasting only a few minutes.

Basically, there are two sides on a backgammon board, each with twelve spaces, for a total of twenty-four spaces. These spaces are numbered from 1 to 24 in opposite directions for the two players, so player one’s space 1 is player two’s space 24, and so on. Where each players’ counters (checkers) are placed varies depending on the rules being used, but a common configuration is five on 6 and 13, three on 8, and two on 24.

To begin the game, you each roll one of the dice, and the player who rolls the highest gets the first turn using the numbers from both dice. The rule is that each number is a move, so if you roll a one and a six, you can move one checker one space and one checker six spaces.

This is where it starts to get a bit complicated, but stick with it. When you’re deciding which checker to move and where, you have to consider which moves are allowed. Your checkers can only move to spaces that have no checkers, only your checkers, or only one of your opponent’s checkers – you cannot move to any space that has two or more of your opponent’s checkers. However, if you land on a space where your opponent has only one checker, you have taken it and can put it on the ‘bar’ in the middle of the board. The bar counts as ‘space zero’ for dice rolls, and any checkers there must be moved before the others can be.

Gambling Myths: What You Absolutely Need to Know

Gambling is considered a game of luck and chance. As the outcome is usually unsure, there are various myths that surround the world of gambling. However, as is mostly the case, these myths are nothing but superstitions that can be refuted by facts.

The premise that gambling involves luck is not concrete. Mathematical matrices and probabilities are tools that can be used to calculate one’s odds. In fact, the casino’s all operating on these strategies to be the winner in the long run. If the players had an advantage on the casino, the casino would suffer huge losses. Each casino has a pre established house percentage which determines how much advantage it enjoys over the player. These percentages are usually kept small, yet the casinos earn huge profits owing to the frequency of losses and the volume of players.

Blackjack, poker and slots are frequently surrounded by myths. Many creators claim that their betting systems are fool proof and ensure consistent winnings. This is all farce, especially knowing the mathematics of the casino and the concept of house advantage. No betting system can sustain for long periods, though it might get a few initial wins. Another talked about principle of winning is that of card counting in blackjack. Accurate card counting and placing all the cards requires pure genius. Even skilled players can take hours to place the cards. A faster method is to determine the odds of the game and then participate.

Slot myths can be quite entertaining. One of the popular myths is that the slots are monitored by the casino and it they who decide whether one would win or loose. In truth, there is no hidden camera or surveillance on the slot machines. The entire game is governed by computer programs and is quite independent of human interference.

Another myth is regarding the facilities provided by the casino to a winning gambler as compensation. It is believed that the casinos provide free rooms, meals and other amenities to the gambler who wins and that these gamblers are the best ones the casino has at that time. It is not the best gambler that the casino compensates every time.

Depending on the potential to pay, the casino compensates the gamblers. Free rooms and meals are provided to make the experience better even in case the gambler suffers huge loss. This helps in building good customer relations and customer loyalty, so that the gambler can be a good source of income in the future.

The tussle between religion and gambling is quite old. While some regard gambling as immoral, some think that gambling on festivals brings luck. A simple explanation can be the age of gambling. Gambling is perhaps as old as the concept of religion itself. Cards and dice games were popular recreational activities and were also used at times to predict the future. Thus gambling and religion can be intricately linked but do not oppose each other.

Myths might be based on true incidents. But with time, they get distorted or blown out of proportion, to sound completely baseless and irrational. Speculation also gives rise to myths. These rumors are an entertainment that come along with the game and should be taken with a pinch of salt.

The Diverse Range of Casino Games

There are several casino games available for you to play that can enable you to reach different levels of thrill and excitement. Casinos have made it possible for you to join into a wide variety of games where you can try your luck and maybe make a fortune. But if you are more into enjoying yourself while at the casino, then you should try out all the casino games available for you in order to give you a worthwhile experience.

One of the most common and popular of casino games is the slot machines. It is one of the casino games available that any casino visitor can play without requiring any prior gambling knowledge. Unlike card games, one does not have to be an expert at the slots. Anyone can easily engage in the game and even win at it. The slots also do require only small bets that any casino visitor can easily afford.

Originally, slot machines were installed in casinos as a diversion for casual casino gamers. But eventually, the slots became a monstrous success as more and more casino gamers prefer to play the slots more than any other table games available. They became the most popular and the most profitable casino game that is why they became the casino’s common trademark. The technology of slot machines may have changed but the game is still played the same way. The player pulls a lever to rotate a series of reels that have different pictures printed on them. Winning is determined by lining up the pictures with the pay line, a line found at the middle of the viewing window. If the series of reels shows similar pictures lining up along the pay line, you win. The amount will depend on what pictures land on the pay line.

Other casino games available for you to play are a number of card games where you may be able to bet to your heart’s content. One card game that you can play is blackjack. Blackjack is one of the most popular card games that you can find at the casino. The primary objective at winning at this card game is trying to get as close to 21 with your cards as possible. Its simplicity has made it one of the more enduring and popular of casino card games. The players would usually be playing against the dealer and not with each other. Their aim is to get their cards have a value as close to 21 as possible. The suits have no meaning in this card game and going over 21 will get you busted. If you are able to have a set of cards having a value closest to 21, then you win.

Another card game that has been getting its ride on popularity has been poker. It has been a game that more and more people would like to play. It is a type of casino game where players go against other players in order to win and not against the dealer. But in order to play the game, a player should be able to understand and know by heart the basics of playing the game. It is not something that one can learn and win games at overnight. Poker is a game that would need a lot of skill and knowledge.

Other games that you will be able to play at casinos include craps and roulette. Craps is a dice game where you may be able to bet in a variety of ways in order to win. It is a kind of casino game that may also require a bit of knowledge before being played. The varieties of winning combinations possible at craps have made it also one of the most exciting casino games one can play. Another casino game that won’t need much knowledge for you to play is at the roulette wheels. Here, you would only need to guess where the ball would fall once the roulette wheel stops spinning and you win. One can either bet on red/black, high/low, or odd/even in order to win.

Learn to Play Craps - Tips and Strategies: The History of Craps

Be smart, play smart, and learn how to play craps the right way!

Dice and dice games date back to the Crusades, but modern craps is only about 100 years old. Modern craps evolved from the ancient English game called Hazard. No one knows for sure the origin of the game, but Hazard is said to have been created by the Englishman, Sir William of Tyre, in the 12th century. It's believed that Sir William's knights played Hazard during a siege on the castle Hazarth in 1125 AD. The name Hazard was derived from the castle's name.

Early French settlers brought the game Hazard to Canada (the colony of Acadia, which is Nova Scotia today). In the 1700s, when displaced by the British, the French moved south and found refuge in southern Louisiana where they eventually became Cajuns. When they left Acadia, they took their favorite game, Hazard, with them. The Cajuns simplified the game and made it more mathematically fair. It's said that the Cajuns changed the name to craps, which was derived from the name of the losing throw of 2 in the game of Hazard, known as "crabs."

From Louisiana, the game extended to the Mississippi riverboats and across the country. Many consider the dice maker John H. Winn as the father of modern craps. In 1907, Winn created the modern craps layout. He added the Don't Pass line so players could bet on the dice to lose. Later, he created the boxes for Place bets and added the Big 6, Big 8, and Hardways.

Now you know! Become a knowledgeable player. Learn how to play craps the right way.

Asian Gambling Resorts

The continent is studded with the casino destinations. It can be called the oriental gambling or the eastern gambling extravaganza. The most happening spots for gamblers can be found all over the continent of Asia. The legalization of gambling in most of the Asian and specially the South-East Asian countries had given a spurt to the industry in this part of the world. Malaysia, Indonesia, Laos, Singapore, India etc. all have superb possibilities for gambling and they are coming up with gambling destination along with all the works.

Gambling might have taken up slow on the Asian grounds because of its importance as a tourist destination. But the answer too lies in the problem. Tourism-Gambling. The hot destination for national and especially international tourists in India is Goa. It offers fabulous outings and exotic beaches to the sun lovers. It is fast coming up with full service casinos and the main attraction is the floating casinos that take the gamblers away in to the sea.

Singapore had not given legal sanction to gambling u till 2005. But looking at the trends in other Asian countries it decided to. The tourist inflow in Singapore is very high and as a shopping destination it attracts people from all over the world. The casinos will now be mushrooming all over the place and the tourists as well as the locals can enjoy the fun betting. Singapore can be called to have adopted a very competent and open policy towards gambling. They are improvising on the gambling services in order to compete with best in the business.

Although Chinese people are mad about gambling, but the practice is completely illegal in china. Having a communist regimen the greater good was seen in not letting the poor into this social vice. However they are into games of chance and they have made popular these games throughout the world. It remains to be seen whether they are ever going to adopt gambling in all its vigor and glory.

The influence of the oriental culture can also be seen on the games that are played in the casinos of Asia. Apart from the usual games like poker, blackjack, lotto etc. there are indigenous games that are played in the casinos of Asia. For example there is “PaiGow” which in Cantonese means nine. This is a very difficult game to play and understand. It is commonly played at the casinos of South East Asia. The use of tiles instead of cards is very common in Asia. For example the traditional gamble of china ‘Maha Jong’ requires a player to assemble the like pairs of tiles to score over the other. Instead of the illegality of gambling in China, it is played throughout China.

Then there is ‘Sic Bo’ which is a mixture of roulette and dice game. Thus it is simpler and thus followed by more people. Asians are thus coming up with fantastic destinations and offers for the traveling gamblers. It is yet to compete with the Las Vegas clubs but the owners of such establishments too are heading towards the more lucrative and virgin markets of Asia. Soon enough the Asians will see the gambling industry loom large.

Simple Introduction to Tennis Scoring for Beginners

Playing a Set with a Tie-Break

At the end of the first and every odd-numbered game, the players switch ends of the court, and the player who served the previous game now receives serve. The server always begins a game by serving from the right. At the start of each game, she announces the number of games each has won, starting with her own score, for example, "3 - 2."

Once a player has won six games by a margin of two or more, he or she has won the set. If the score within a set reaches 6 - 6, the players may either continue to try to reach a margin of two (such as 8 - 6 or 9 - 7), or they may play a tie-break to decide the set. In tournament play, this choice will have been determined in advance, but recreational players often choose whichever option appeals to them at the moment.

In a standard "12-point tie break" (best of 12), one player must win seven points by a margin or two or more.

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The player who received in the game preceding the tie-break serves the first point of the tie-break, starting from the right. The other player then serves the next two points, the first from the left, then the second from the right. Each player continues serving two points per turn. Points are scored with counting numbers ("1, 2, 3 . . ."). When the point total reaches six and each multiple of six, the players switch ends of the court.

Starting a New Set

If the previous set ended with an odd-numbered total of games, the players switch ends to begin the new set. (A tie-break counts as one game.) They will switch ends after every odd game through each set.

At the start of a new set, the player who received in the last game of the previous set (or received first in the tie-break) now serves.

Completing a Match

In most tournaments, the first player to win two sets (best of three) wins the match. In a few events, such as men's Grand Slam tournaments, one must win three sets (best of five). Where time or fitness impose limits on the length of matches, a tie-break is sometimes used in place of a third set.

Recreational players often keep going until they're exhausted, even if one of them has won four sets in a row.

How to Use a Backgammon Doubling Cube

Here's How:

1. Backgammon can be played as a series of games, with players competing to reach a certain number of points to win. (Or for a set number of games; the player who has the most points at the end wins.)
2. Each game starts with a value of one point. The doubling cube is placed in the middle of the Bar and is not controlled by either player.
3. When a player feels he or she has the advantage, that player can choose -- before he or she rolls the dice -- to offer a double.
4. The opposing player can turn down the offer, but concedes (i.e. loses) the game by doing so.
5. If the opposing player accepts the offer, the value of the game doubles (e.g. from 1 to 2, from 2 to 4, from 4 to 8, etc.).
6. When a player accepts a double, he or she takes control of the doubling cube and is the only player who can make the next offer of a double.
7. Some players use "beavers": when a player is doubled, he or she may immediately redouble (beaver) while maintaining control of the cube. The original doubler can accept or refuse, as with a normal double.
8. Some players use "automatic doubling": if the first roll is doubles, the value of the game becomes 2 points. The cube remains in the middle (no player has control of it).

Tips:

1. Although any particular doubling cube will have a limited number of sides, technically there is no maximum point value for a single game.
2. You don't really need to have a cube to play with doubling rules -- a pencil and paper can be used as a completely effective substitute.

Pig - Dice Game

A fun game you can play with one die.
If you're ever stuck somewhere with no games, but you do have at least one six-sided die, try playing Pig to pass the time.

Players

Best with 2, can work with more. (The downtime between your turns grows longer with each additional player.)

Equipment

1 six-sided die, score sheet, pen or pencil.

Goal

Be the first player to reach 100 points.

Gameplay

On a turn, a player rolls the die repeatedly until either:

* A 1 is rolled
* The player chooses to hold (stop rolling)

If a 1 is rolled, that player's turn ends and no points are earned.

If the player chooses to hold, all of the points rolled during that turn are added to his or her score.

Scoring Examples

Example 1: Sherri rolls a 3 and decides to continue.
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She then chooses to roll seven more times (6, 6, 6, 4, 5, 6, 1). Because she rolled a 1, Sherri's turn ends and she earns 0 points.

Example 2: Craig rolls a 6 and decides to continue. He then chooses to roll four more times (3, 4, 2, 6) and decides to hold. Craig earns 21 points for this turn (6+3+4+2+6=21).

Game End

When a player reaches a total of 100 or more points, the game ends and that player is the winner.

Variant

Use 2 six-sided dice. If a player rolls a single 1, the turn ends and no points are scored. However, if a player rolls double 1s, that counts as 25 points.

Other doubles are worth double points, so that a 2-2 is worth 8 points; 3-3 is worth 12; 4-4 is worth 16; 5-5 is worth 20; and 6-6 is worth 24.

Dragon's Hoard

Dragon's Hoard is a common dice game played in many taverns. Patrons often find the game's layout on the taverns tables. In lower class establishments the layout is often crudely carved into the tables' surface, whereas finer establishments have been known to use inlaid precious metals and intricately carved scrollwork.

The layout is usually nine circles with the numbers 3 through 11 inside them. This layout is used for both d6 and d4 gameplay (occasionally an establishment will have a layout specifically for d4 play, which is made up of 5 circles with the numbers 3 through 7 inside them).

In most establishments, the currency of the region is used to wager; however some establishments provide counters or chips. Players sometimes play to divvy up other valuable stakes, such as jewelry and magic items.

Players throw the dice in turn. After each throw, they place a chip on the corresponding number on the layout. For example, if a player throws a total of 4, he places a chip on the area of the layout marked 4. Once a number on the layout has three or more chips on it, the next player to roll that number collects them. If a player rolls a pair of 1's, known as Dragon Eyes, that player places a chip on all the numbers on the layout. If a player rolls two 6's, know as Stealing the Hoard, they collect all the chips on the layout. Play continues for a pre-determined time, or until it is agreed to end the game.

This dice game requires two dice (2d4 or 2d6), chips and a layout drawn up with the appropriate numbers on it. This game is based on a dice game known as Jackpot.

Smart Box Design Rolls Out Farkle, the Classic Dice Game, for Windows Mobile Handhelds

Smart Box Design is pleased to announce the release of its Farkle dice game for Windows Mobile devices and a free update for Palm OS users. Like most games of chance and skill, Farkle's attraction stems from players hoping to beat the odds and roll a high scoring combination. Farkle, which earned rave reviews by journalists and gamers alike after its Palm OS launch, will now provide users of both major PDA and smartphone platforms the chance to enjoy this classic dice game whenever and wherever they want.

Farkle is an enormously popular game throughout the world. Players roll a set of six dice for points and can continue rolling the dice as long as their roll continues to yield points. Any non-scoring roll is called a Farkle and the player forfeits their turn and any points accumulated during that turn. Players must gauge the risk of rolling again after setting aside scoring dice and decide whether to "bank" their points or risk them for a potentially higher score.

Farkle offers players an opportunity to challenge friends or compete against a variety of "intelligent" computer opponents with a wide range of personalities—from cautious to daring—that will determine the level of risk each opponent is willing to take when deciding just how far to push their luck.

The "artificial intelligence" of the Farkle opponents was praised by PC World Magazine in its review of the game. The reviewer enjoyed being able to select from a number of AI opponents, each employing a different level of risk in its game-playing strategies.

The just-released Windows Mobile and Palm version offers a new game variation: players cannot pass to the next player if they choose to keep all of the dice as rolled. This additional variation adds a new strategy to the game by having the user consider the benefit of keeping all the dice and chancing another roll (and therefore a possible Farkle) or keeping fewer dice with a lower score and passing.

"We have been thrilled by the response to our WordPop! game from the Windows Mobile market, and we're excited to deliver another title to that platform," said Todd Sherman, president of Smart Box Design. "Farkle is unlike any other game being released for Pocket PCs, and those who are looking for something different to play will enjoy Farkle."

A free trial version is available at http://www.smartboxdesign.com/farkleppc.html It can be purchased for US$14.95.

About Smart Box Design
Smart Box Design LLC, based in Seattle, Washington, was formed in 2003 by game industry veterans who share a common vision of creating exciting high-quality casual games for mobile users. Smart Box Design licenses, develops, and publishes games for Palm OS and Pocket PC / Windows Mobile Powered handheld devices and phones. The company's games include WordPop!, Triples, Farkle Dice, and Word Watch. For more information about the company, visit www.smartboxdesign.com.

The names of actual companies and products mentioned herein may be the trademarks of their respective owners

Asian Gambling Basics

Gambling became popular in China in the last phase of the imperial dynasty i.e. from 1644 to 1912. Canton, Macao, Shanghai and Hong Kong became the famous for their liquor and gambling. These areas inhabited foreigners, usually Americans, who were known to be rough. Moreover, majority of these inhabitants were males. Chinese natives indulged in gambling along with the foreigners.

Famous gambling games in China include Mah Jongg and Pai Gow. Pia Gow consists of a bank having one woodpile. The banking duties are entrusted to one of the players. Other players are given four tiles of the woodpile, which they have to group in pairs of two such that the player’s pair should have a greater value than the bank. If the player succeeds then he wins the bet. A lot of money can exchange hands over this game.

Mah Jongg, meaning ‘sparrow’ is an ancient game which was developed primarily for the rich class of China. The game is said to have been invented by a fisherman to prevent sea sickness. It is said that the fisherman invented this game to distract the other fishermen from the surroundings, so that they do not feel sea sick in the middle of the sea. Later, a Chinese general heard of the game and engaged his soldiers in it at night to prevent them from falling asleep. The game underwent a lot of variations and every region called it with a different name. Finally, the game was standardized in early 1990s. the game consists of 136 to 144 tiles depending on the whether the players choose to play with flowers or seasons. The play resembles rummy except for the fact that the game is played with tiles. The game also uses a pair of dice and chips to keep the score. It requires four players, the aim of each being to obtain a set of tiles. The set types that are permitted are “kong”, “pung” and “chow”. A complete hand contains four sets and a pair of similar tiles. The fist one to have this combination of fourteen tiles wins.

Another game is Sci Bo, meaning ‘two dice’. This game is a betting game with players betting on the total of their dice. It is played with three dice. The bets include small bets that is the total may fall; between the range of four to ten, or big bets i.e. the total may fall between eleven to seventeen. The players shake the dice in a cup and keep the cup upside down with the dice hidden in the cup. Wagers are then made on the outcome. The player guessing the total can earn hugs sums. It is rumored that skilful players can predict the total by hearing the clanking of dice in the cup. In casinos the entire game is mechanized. Bets are placed on the number marked on the table. The dice are then shaken using a vibrating platform. The results are displayed on a screen. Other famous gambling games include Keno and Pachinko.

Despite the popularity of these gambling games, not all Chinese states are ready to legalize it. While Macao has legalized gambling, Shanghai carries it on illegally. In Hong Kong, only horse raising is legalized and The Hong Kong Jockey Club earns huge revenue.

The Backgammon Board - More Than Just A Pretty Face

Have you ever looked at a backgammon board and thought "What the heck"? To the beginning backgammon player, it can look completely foreign and slightly confusing, but it looks really nice does it not? Of course, there is more to backgammon that just a nice looking board. So, let's dissect the backgammon board and find out just what is what.

The first thing you need to do is open it of course, but I bet you already knew that! Here is what you should find:

- Fifteen White Checkers

- Fifteen Black Checkers

- Two White Dice

- Two Black Dice

- Two Shakers

- One Doubling Cube

Make sure you have everything, it is virtually impossible to play a proper game of backgammon, without the proper setup. Furthermore, depending on the game you have, the pieces may be of different colors and could possibly only come with one set of dice for you to share.

The backgammon board has a series of triangles, which are also referred to as points and there are twenty-four of them, and sections that are referred to as quadrants and there are four of these. It is necessary to count the points in order to place the checkers properly.

The checkers are placed as followed, keep in mind that the first point is located at the bottom right hand corner, the last point will be at the upper right hand corner, this is according to wherever you and your partner is sitting:

The players place:

- Two on point 24

- Five on point 13

- Three on point 8

- Five on Point 6

Remember, the points are counted according to where you are sitting. Therefore, your number 24 point will be on the opposite side as your opponents 24 point.

The doubling cube a tricky little thing and generally confusing to new players, is a dice that carries the numbers 2, 4, 18, 16, 32, and 64 on six sides. This cube is used for doubling whatever stakes are currently on the game, which may include losing some points. Generally, doubling cube is only used when money is at stake during game play.

The backgammon board has a division bar, which separates the inner board from the outer board. The whole point of the game is to get your checkers into your side of the inner board, which will be the side nearest you. At the end, you will each have a section for holding your checkers. Once all of your checkers are in your section of the inner board, you will be able to "bear off" and remove them from the board, into your section to go for the win.

Gambling Equipment Guide

Gambling is popular amongst the young as well as the old. For many individuals gambling is a source of earning while for others it is a means to perfect entertainment. Today gambling is not just confined to the four walls of a casino. It has made its way to houses by virtue of computers (online gambling) and other gambling equipments. While many people are enticed by online gambling, those who desire to have a real feel of the game get gambling set up at their home only.

The gambling set ups are more or less same for all the games though there are some variations. For instance the tables of different games are different. A poker table is unlike a blackjack one. But some of the common gaming equipments are dice, cards, coins etc.

Dice is perhaps the foremost requirement of any gambling sport. It also can be the cheapest of all gambling equipments. This is because of the myriad variety of dice available today. A plastic dice will be significantly less expensive in comparison to an ivory made dice. In ancient times stones, pebbles, chalks etc. personified dice. Since people were not very particular regarding the equipments of the game, they would mark the holes on any tiny handy nugget and commence their game. Gradually dice came to acquire a proper cubical structure with pierced holes on all the sides. However in comparison to a dice used in household games, a casino dice has more precision. Casino dice is also known as ‘perfect dice’ as it is carved in a way that each side weighs equal after the holes have been pierced on each side. This provides an equal probability of either side being the outcome.

The other essential ingredient of gambling is ‘cards’. Usually cards are exclusive to every casino. This is because the backside of the card bears the logo of the casino. The casino cards are primarily of two types- bridge size and poker wide. Initially cards were made out of hard paper and different paintings were made on them. The suits and faces of contemporary cards are a gift of France.

Casino tables have their own charm. These tables are designed differently for different types of games and are quite expensive. For instance a single poker table can cost its buyer several thousand dollars. But here too prices vary with the quality of the table. The table face has a woolen felt surface with the games name on it. Along with it the odds and the areas for placing bets are also specified. However with the help of blueprints people often make gambling tables on their own. This is the most cost effective way to play the game.

Besides these assortments nowadays kits are available for different games. For instance a bingo kit has in it everything (such as bingo balls, markers, hand cranked ball cage etc.) that is required to play bingo. These kits make children too quite familiar with the game.

How To Play Backgammon - Moving Your Backgammon Chips

When you are ready to play backgammon, after setting up your backgammon chips and understanding the board, it can be just as confusing as learning the set up of the board itself. There are specific rules to playing backgammon and this article is going to show you just how to begin your first game.

After setting up the board, choosing which backgammon chips you will use, black, or white, and you are ready to play; it is time to grab the dice. Each player rolls one dice to determine who goes first. Depending upon how you decided to play, the first player will either use that roll for his or her move, or they will roll again.

When it comes to moving your backgammon chips, there are a few things to keep in mind. First of all, you will always move forward, never backwards. However, keep in mind that you will be moving against your opponent and vice versa. Your goal is to move your chips to your inner board. Now how you move your backgammon chips will be determined your dice roll. Now since you have two dice, you have two choices. Each number will represent one point. For example, if you roll a 5 and a 3, the 5 represents five points, the 3 represents three points on the board.

Now, for you this could mean moving two backgammon chips or one, depending on your strategy and availability. In other words, you can move one of your chips five points and another one of your pieces three points. On the other hand, you can even opt to move one dice eight points if you have an open path.

Now determining an open path is a little more difficult. The main thing to be watchful for is a point that has more than two of your opponent’s chips on it, which means a block, you cannot move your chips onto this spot. The only points your chips can land on are those containing your own chips, vacant, or those with just one of your opponents chips on them. If you have no legal moves, you have to forfeit your turn. In some cases, you may be able to legally move one chip, but not others, you will have to take this move.

Now a special case is when you roll doubles with the dice. In other words, if you were to roll two threes, you would have a variety of options available for moves. In this instance, you could move backgammon chips as followed:

- One chip twelve points
- Two chips six points (per chip)
- One chip nine points, as well as one chip three points
- Two chips three points (per chip), as well as another chip six points
- Four chips three points (per chip)

Now, you will notice above when I mentioned your backgammon chips can land on a space occupied by only one of your opponents chips. This chip is referred to as a blot, you landing on it constitutes an attack. Now, when you have landed on a point with your opponents chip on it, the chip will then need to be removed from the board. It is placed on the bar in the center of the board.

Now what is good about the blot is the fact that your opponent cannot make any other moves until they can legally move the blot from the center piece and it can only be moved into the inner board, which is like them starting all over again. The bad part of the blot is the fact that it can happen to you as well.

To win the game, you must have all your pieces on your inner board. This means they must all be on your one through six points. Then you can begin the “bear off” part of the game, which is essentially removing your pieces from the board on your rolls. The first person to rid all of their backgammon chips from the board wins. You can obtain a double victory, however, if your opponent fails to bear any of their chips off the board. Now, to the name of the game, if your opponent has not reached the bear off phase and there are still any blots sitting on the bar or any chips within your side of the inner table, you are awarded Backgammon, which is a triple victory.

Gambling Equipment 101

The excitement and popularity of the gambling games entices few players to own their own gaming equipments. Mini blackjack tables and poker tables are quite famous among the buyers.

The most common and perhaps inexpensive of the gambling equipments is the dice. Dice games are so ancient that their inventor is unknown by the historians. However, that the dice games prevailed in almost all the early civilizations is an established fact. the initial dice were animal bones, fruit stones, small pebbles or ivory. Today, dice has acquired much more precision with its cubical shape. While the standard dice is crude and used in households games, casino dice is more accurate and perfect. The casino dice, also called the ‘perfect dice’ is made in a manner that each side weighs equal after the holes have been punctured on each side. This enables equal probability of either side being the outcome. Serious gamblers use casino die in their games. Casinos have dice tolls available with them like the dice punches and dice vices.

Cards have been played by many civilizations. The first pack of cards was made of thick paper with hand painted figures on them. The modern cards got their suits and faces in France. The French deck consisted of 78 cards. The deck comprised of both gaming and tarot cards. The tarot cards were then separated to reduce the number of cards in the deck. The cards were adopted by the Europeans and traveled to America where the joker was added to them. Cards are inexpensive to procure. Many people are fond of collecting various casino cards. These cards have the casino’s logo imprinted on them. The casino cards can either be bridge size or poker wide.

Casino tables vary according to the style game one is playing i.e. poker has different table than the blackjack. One table can cost the buyer some thousand dollars. The table can either be a standard one or customized. The tables differ in quality according to the price. The table face has a woolen felt surface with the game’s name marked. The odds and the areas for placing the bets is also demarcated. A person interested low on budget or keen on building his own table can do so with the help of various blueprints available.

Poker has gained momentum over the years. The game was given a tremendous boost when the televised tournaments were organized by sports channels a few years back. Since then every poker player dreams to make it big. Online tournaments are also conducted. The basic poker requirements consist of grade cards, heavyweight chips and dice sets. Enthusiasts can also buy automatic card shufflers.

Bingo a famous and simple game popular among all age groups consists of simple equipment. The entire requirements are contained in the bingo kit, which can be bought from the market. The kit usually comprises of bingo cards, hand cranked ball cage, bingo balls and markers. The players can diversify and go for other instruments like the daubers.

The thrill and excitement of gambling has found players every where. Legalized gambling in cities like the Las Vegas and state owned lotteries boost the gambling economy. Poker groups are formulated in colleges, workplaces and are a perennial source of recreation. All these trends ensure a promising future to the gambling industry

Dice Setters or Rhythmic Rollers?

If you ask a group of craps players if they would rather be on a table with a rhythmic roller or a dice setter, they will almost inadvertently tell you a dice setter. This is because they have most likely played with numerous dice setters with some grade of success and secondly, because most people will think of rhythmic rollers as just somebody who picks up the dice and gives throws them across the table.

In all my years at a craps table, I have only seen two “true” rhythmic shooters. The rhythmic shooter can control the dice and cause an unbelievably consistent outcome by rolling in a rhythm. The first one I saw was average and the other one simply astonishing.

I first played craps with her a few years ago in Tunica, Mississippi. She was playing on a table by herself early at The Horseshoe and I sat down at a nearby slot to keep a keen eye on her. I could tell she was doing well because her red chips went to green and then started to go black.

The first thing I noticed was that she kept her left hand at an angle on the table all the time with her palm down on the felt. She then seemed to pat the felt in some sort of rhythm, but not really. It was quite strange but it worked. Keep in mind, most rhythmic rollers do not stay in this same position patting the felt, but she did.

I suppose where she tokes the dealers, she gets them to “keep the dice moving” but I never heard her say anything like that at all, but the bets she placed for them were quite noticeable, especially with a dealer bet $54 across. You better believe the stickman kept the dice moving, even with the stick change, they continued to move the dice quickly in her direction. This can help a Rhythmic Roller.

She held them for another thirty minutes on that roll, seemed agitated and called it a night. The next morning, I asked the dealers on the next shift if they had seen her, I described what she looked like and they immediately said she went over to Hollywood to visit friends. Feeling like a leech, but down quite a bit on my luck before I met her, I rushed right over.

The only thing I noticed was that little hand tapping out some sort of rhythmic beat while she hit number after number. When I asked her how she learned to play so well, she said, “Oh, I’m not that good really, it’s just my lucky hat”.

I have been fortunate enough to play with her perhaps five or six times now and I’ve come to the conclusion she is wearing my lucky hat too!

Dice Games 101

Dice games are the oldest and one of the simplest games that perhaps suit all ages. The dice games involved in gambling are one of the most exciting and popular ones.

Dice games have been played since centuries. So old is there origin that the historians do not know the inventor for sure. However, from whatever is available it can be safely said that dice games originated in different cultures around the same time. Illustrations of the games have been found on Egyptian tombs and the ancient Greeks also played the games.

In fact the Chinese dominoes are considered a variation of the ancient dice games. Apart from being a source of entertainment these games were used in the past for other major purposes like for determining future rulers, predicting future events and dividing property. ‘Cleromancy’ is the name given to the activity of casting die or small objects in order to predict the future. The initial dice was made up of pebbles, fruit stones, human or animal bones, sea shells etc.

Today, dice games form a part of the gambling excitement. While the common man uses standard dice, casinos use casino dice. The standard die is cubical in size with dots punctured on each side, counting one to seven. The numbers of the opposite side add up to seven. The standard dice has rounded edges to make it roll easily. The casino dice is more perfect primarily because its money that is involved! The hole punctured are filled with another substance to make each side weigh equal. the casino dice has an equal chance on landing on either side. Other kinds of dice are crooked dice, loaded dice, polyhedral dice.

The most exciting of the dice games played in casinos is ‘craps’. Craps can either be ‘street’ crap or ‘bank ‘crap. However, generally, this games involves shooting die to gat a seven or an eleven which is considered an automatic win and is called ‘craps’. Another game that is played using three die is Grand Hazard. The underlying concept of the game is betting on the outcome of the roll of die.

Shooting of the dice is integral part of some dice games. The activity decides one’s fate in the game. In craps, the player with the dice shoots the dice to a blackboard. The dice hits the blackboard and fall back. The side on which the dice falls is plain luck. However, some players use ‘rhythm rolling’ to control the outcome. By this technique, the player holds and rolls the dice in a manner to get the desired numbers. But this technique requires skill and practice.

Another manner is rolling the dice. Rolling the dice, however, can be manipulated. The player can hold on the dice and throw in a calculative manner to get a desired number. However, the players usually cannot manipulate in the casinos under heavy surveillance.

People who do not play dice games can have fun even collecting different kinds of die. Collecting die can be fun regarding their different shapes and sizes. The die of various casinos even have the name of their country branded on them.

Dice Games Basics

The young and the old relish it, it governs the game with its different numbers, and it declares the winner who bags the business- ‘Dice’, the most significant element of a game. Dice is the life of each dice game but players hardly throw any attention to it. This article will be a talk about ‘dice’, its history, its types, dice games and little of their strategies.

A Delve into the Past

Numerous other things like fruits, nuts and stones etc. were used as a dice before the latter was made. The Greeks and the Romans had bones to play the dice games. The invention of dice came about around 6000 B.C. While several others believe that dice was born around 2000 B.C. Initially throwing of dice had different dimensions. People used to attach supernatural powers and other deities to the outcome of the dice. It is deemed that the Romans were the foremost users of the dice. The tradition later passed on to the French, Europeans and Chinese.

Variety of Dice

• There are different types dice that are commonly used. The Standard Dice is that which is most often made up of plastic, at times of wood, stone and glass. This dice has indentations that make it lighter on the sides and due to which the dice favors high numbers.

• The Perfect Casino Dice is handmade and involves wonderful accuracy. Almost all of these dice are transparent red and are set in a right handed format. The holes of this dice are filled with a weighted substance after drilled.

• Crooked Dice are according to their name. They are cooked up in such a manner to make the odds assist the player who is deceitful. Elements like lead, gold and platinum etc. are the added as adulterants to the dice that make it a heavy one. The extra weight of the dice cats as a preventive measure against the crooked dice.

• The dice that functions by changing weight distribution within the dice is known as the Tapping dice. Within the dice there is a mercury chamber or wire with a weight that ratchets up and down the wire. The outside of the dice can also be tampered with.

Apart from the variety of dice, there are various ways to throw dice and set the stage to throw it. Qualified players invent new ways to throw dice and make money. At times the cheats are detected while many a times he goes escapes to victory.

When the Dice Rolls

• Dice games are universal. Innumerable games have imparted an inevitable existence to dice. One of the most common dice games is the game of Chuck-a-Luck. The dice are put in an hour glass like cage. The cage is turned up and down and the dice are made to fall on the table after bets are placed on them. The number combinations establish the winner.

• The Over and Under Seven Game is a game that uses two dice. The players wager over the outcome of the dice that will it be plus seven or less than seven or seven itself. Depending upon this, there are different strategies to carry the game ahead.

• One of the games that involve usage of three dice is the Grand Hazard. The waging is based on forecasting whether the total for three dice will be 10 or less and 11 or higher.

Besides these there are several other dice games that include huge money making business.

The charisma of dice can turn millionaires to beggars and vice-a-versa. It is upon the player to manipulate the outcome or get maneuvered by it.

Learn to Play Craps - Tips and Strategies: Dice-Tossing Styles

It's interesting to note the variety of dice-tossing styles you'll encounter over your craps-playing life. Some are plain and boring, weird and funny, and others are downright irritating. Ever really thought about it? How many ways can you reach down, pick up the dice, and toss them to the other end of the table? If you've played enough craps, you've seen it all.

The casino has strict rules for handling and tossing dice, which are the subject of an upcoming article. I'll mention four of them so you'll understand the basics. Handle the dice with only one hand. Never bring the dice outside the imaginary plane that extends up from the edge of the table (i.e., always keep the dice inside the table). Don't toss the dice higher the height of the dealers. And smoothly toss the dice so they both hit the back wall (i.e., the wall at the other end of the table). If you follow these simple rules, you'll do just fine.

Let's start with the grip. Most people simply reach down, pick up the dice, and hold them in their palm or between their fingers. Not some people. Some believe their lucky grip will result in a winning number, while others believe they can control the outcome of their tosses so taking a precise grip is the first step in their wacky routines. For example, there's the ice-tong grip, lock grip, 5-finger grip, 2-finger front diagonal grip, flying-V grip, stacked grip, 3-finger front grip, 3-finger front diagonal grip, 2-finger pincer grip, and many more. (Seriously, I'm not making this up!) And don't forget, before taking one of those grips, they must properly position the dice with the precise alignment and orientation. For example, the 6 on one die must be oriented so the pips (i.e., the dots on a die are called "pips") are parallel to the tabletop and the number must be adjacent to the 3 on the other die, and the pips on the 3 must be oriented so they go diagonally upward to the right. (Again, I'm not making this stuff up!) After they've achieved perfect alignment with the heavens and stars, they take their grip. But they don't just pick up the dice, they must slowly and gently place their fingers on them and precisely measure the pressure applied to each die using the delicate pressure sensors in their fingertips. Finally, with the exact dice alignment and finger pressure, the shooter launches the dice toward the end of the table contorting their wrist, arm, shoulder, and torso. I've often wondered how some people don't throw out their shoulders or keep from tearing the tendons that attach the muscles of the forearm to the arm bone at the elbow joint. These are the irritating shooters because they seemingly take forever. Everyone else at the table is anxious for the next roll, but these clowns who think they're dice doctors or dice wizards (or whatever they call themselves) delay the game by taking their weird grips instead of just picking up the dice and tossing them.

Some people gently tap the tabletop before tossing. That's okay as long as it's just a tap. If you knock or bang the dice, the boxman will politely ask you to refrain. If you don't heed his request, the next time he won't be so polite. Personally, I'm a tapper. Also, I like to flash an empty hand just before picking up the dice. As I reach down for them, I quickly turn my palm up, flash open my fingers so the crew (and the camera) can see my hand is empty, grab the dice, and smoothly toss them. It's an instantaneous, fluid motion just long enough for the crew to see my empty hand, but quick enough that most players don't notice it and don't realize what I'm doing. (I make the boxman's and surveillance team's jobs easier by showing an empty hand before touching the dice.)

Some people puff on the dice for luck. That's okay, too, as long as you don't use two hands, don't bring the dice outside the imaginary plane, and don't spit on the dice (accidentally or otherwise).

Some people throw the dice low and hard so they bounce all over the place after hitting the back wall. Avoid doing this because it increases the likelihood that a die will fly off the table causing the game to be delayed.

Some people toss them so weakly that they barely hit the back wall. Although you don't want to throw them like a Major League pitcher, you should avoid feeble, pathetic tosses. Smoothly toss them so they bounce off the tabletop and then hit the back wall. If you've never tossed dice, you'll get the hang of it after just a few throws.

So, what's your technique? Whatever it is, be considerate of other players and the dealers. Don't take forever finding your precise grip. Don't throw them so hard they continually fly off the table. Don't spit on them as part of your puffing routine. Don't aim for the chip stacks at the other end of the table (chips fly everywhere and the dealers have to remember where they all go). Don't hit the mirror on the side of table (casino dice are hard with sharp points and angles, so don't break their mirror). A smooth toss so the dice gently hit the back wall and stay on the table is all you need.

Now you know! Remember, learn how to play craps the right way.

Guess the Dice Contest Official Rules

1. No purchase necessary. The Guess the Dice Contest (the “Contest”) is open to legal residents of the United States subject to eligibility guidelines below. Void where prohibited by law. The Contest begins at 9:00 a.m. PST on August 10, 2005 and ends at 11:59 p.m. PST on August 18, 2005. This Contest is sponsored by Wizards of the Coast, Inc. (“Wizards”). YOU ARE NOT REQUIRED TO MAKE A PURCHASE OR PROVIDE OTHER CONSIDERATION TO ENTER OR WIN.

2. Eligibility: The Contest is open to any legal resident of the United States. Employees of Wizards, its affiliates, subsidiaries, franchisees, agents, retailers, advertising and promotion agencies, and fulfillment companies, and their immediate families (parents, children, siblings, spouse) and members of their same households (related or not) are not eligible to participate in the Contest. There is no age limit to participate.

3. How to enter: We filled a D&D game tote with as many 20-sided dice we could beg, borrow and steal (apologies to all our fellow coworkers wondering what happened to their missing dice) – and it turned out the game tote can hold a lot more than we thought! Now here's your chance to win a game tote of your own. There's just one catch: you'll have to be the one who comes closest to guessing just how many 20-sided dice we managed to load into ours.

Make your guess on the following message board thread (one guess per person) from now until August 18th – not coincidentally, the start of this year's Gen Con festivities, where more game totes will be for sale.

Provide your guess to us in one of three (3) ways:

1) Post it on the message board for the contest, which you can find here: http://boards1.wizards.com/showthread.php?p=6924836

2) E-mail it, in Microsoft Word format, to boards@wizards.com. Please include your name and postal address.

3) Send it, typewritten, on 8½” x 11 sheets of paper to Wizards of the Coast, Attn: Online Media, Guess The Dice Contest, 1801 Lind Ave SW, Renton WA 98055. Please include your name, e-mail address and postal address.

All entries must be received by Wizards no later than August 18, 2005. Limit one entry per person. Entries are the property of Wizards and will not be acknowledged or returned.

4. Judging: The correct guess wins! In the event that no eligible entry contains the correct guess, then the closest guess without exceeding the correct amount wins. In the event of a tie, winner will be randomly chosen from the tied entries. The winning answer will be posted on the message boards, and at http://www.wizards.com/dnd on or before August 31, 2005. All decisions made by Wizards on all matters relating to this Contest are binding. Winners will be notified by e-mail or telephone. If winners are unable to be contacted at the information they provided within three (3) days after attempts are made, winner will be disqualified and prize may not be awarded in Wizard’s sole discretion.

5. Prize and Approximate Retail Value:

One (1) winner will receive a D&D game tote. Approximate retail value of prize is $39.95.

Prize is not transferable. Winner will be required to sign and return, within 5 days of notification an Affidavit of Eligibility/Release of Liability and Publicity. Noncompliance with this requirement, return of prize/prize notification as undeliverable, or failure to comply with any terms of these Official Rules will result in a winner’s disqualification.

6. Conditions: Wizards and its agencies are not responsible for any error, omission, interruption, deletion, defect, delay in operations, theft, destruction, unauthorized access to, or alterations of, entry materials, or failure to receive any entry information. Further, Wizards and its agencies are not responsible for late, lost, damaged, destroyed, delayed, illegible, postage-due or incomplete entries. Wizards reserves the right, in its sole discretion, to suspend, modify or cancel the Contest. By participating in the Contest, entrant agrees to release and hold Wizards, its directors, officers, employees, subsidiaries, affiliates, divisions, agencies and all prize suppliers, harmless from any and all losses, damages, rights, claims, and actions of any kind in connection with the Contest, or resulting from acceptance, possession, use or misuse of any prize, including, without limitation, personal injuries, death and property damage, and claims based on publicity rights, defamation, or invasion of privacy, whether suffered by entrant or a third party. This Contest is void where prohibited by law. By participating, entrants agree to be bound by these Official Rules and the decisions of the judges. All winners, on behalf of themselves, their executors, heirs and assigns, by acceptance of a prize, agree to release Wizards from any and all liability, claims or actions of any kind whatsoever for injuries, damages or losses of any kind to persons or property which may be sustained in connection with the receipt, ownership or use of the prize or otherwise. By accepting a prize, each winner grants Wizards permission to use his/her name and likeness for advertising and future promotional purposes without notice or additional compensation (except where prohibited by law). This Contest is subject to these Official Rules. Failure to comply with The Official Rules will result in disqualification. An entrant’s entries will be disqualified, at the sole discretion of Wizards, if he or she attempts (a) to enter the Contest through any means other than described in these Official Rules; or (b) to disrupt the Contest, circumvent the terms and conditions of these Official Rules, or in any way tamper with any component of the Contest.

Guess the Dice Contest Results

Heading off to your next gaming session? How will you get there along with your much-needed books, your dice and all your favorite minis? Thankfully, preparing for such an expedition just became that much easier with the official D&D Game Tote!

* Holds at least 5 core rulebooks
* Plastic compartmentalized box for holding miniatures
* Zippered insert pouch
* Pen/Pencil slots
* Map pouch
* Water bottle pouch

Of course, having seen the tote ourselves, we wanted to put its true carrying capacity to the test. We filled one with as many 20-sided dice that we could beg, borrow and steal (apologies to all our fellow coworkers wondering where all their missing dice went) – and as it turned out, the game tote can hold a lot more of them than we thought!

Now here's your chance to win a D&D Game Tote of your own. There's just one catch: you'll have to come closest to guessing how many 20-sided dice we loaded into ours. Guess well, and the game tote could be yours!

Make your guess on the following message board thread (one guess per person) from now until August 18th – coincidentally, the start of this year's Gen Con festivities, where a limited number of game totes will be for sale.

Your Votes & Dice Weirdos

First of all, we have a few voting results to share! You Craft the Creature has at last reached a conclusion:

Baker 2: 48.8%
Baker 1: 32.6%
Baker 3 : 18.6%


Our thanks once more to everyone who took the time to vote, and helped shape Codename: Baker into the fearsome villain he’s become. We haven’t announced what future sourcebook Baker will appear in, but we’ll keep you posted and be sure to share further previews of your crafted creature along the way.

Monster Makeover

Second, last week we asked you to vote on which creature you’d like to receive a future makeover. Mike Mearls remains chained to his desk, working on the revised beholder. In addition, here were your choices for future selections:

mind flayer: 16.7%
rakshasa: 11.3%
gelatinous cube: 9.8%
hydra: 8.6%
doppelganger: 7.0%
bodak: 6.5%
wyvern: 5.1%
carrion crawler: 5.0%
will-o-wisp: 5.0%
centaur: 4.7%
drider: 4.3%
titan: 4.2%
klurichir: 2.4%
athach: 2.1%
purple worm: 1.9%
ghaele: 1.6%
grick: 1.6%
girallon: 1.3%
delver: 0.8%

It Was the Best of Rolls

Back in the 2.0 days, I rolled a paladin with absolutely great stats, including an 18/00 Strength. All the rolls were made with the DM and players watching, but with that 18/00, the DM claimed he missed the roll. My fellow players howled in protest, but he was DM, so I rolled again, this time ensuring he was watching.

Bam! Another 18. The DM grimaced while the players chuckled, and I rolled the dice for the exceptional score.

Bam! Another “00”.

Thus was born "Ahnold", my übermensch of a paladin.
--Patrick

It Was the Worst of Rolls

I'm not sure if this counts as a dice story or not, but I can recount many events where my luck (or lack thereof) with dice is unparalleled. A few highlights:

* I have rolled five consecutive "1"s in game on a d20.
* Recently, our gaming group returned from a three month hiatus. My first two rolls on the d20: 1 for initiative (no positive modifiers) and 1 on the first attack roll.
* When one of the gamers purchased a new kitchen table, he allowed me to christen it by having the first roll (perhaps to allow my luck to change): it was a "1" on a d20.
* Most notably, I recently got a fortune cookie that stated: "The best roll of the dice is to throw them away."

My luck is so consistently bad that my group has allowed me to roll 2d12 and add the result in place of a d20. That's why I always play a cleric. Even if you botch a roll on a cure spell, you're still healing the barbarian one point per die.
--Brown

Bad Dice! Bad Dice!

I have to punish dice that consistently roll bad as an example to the other dice I own. What I do is throw the offending die in a large body of water. The bigger the body of water, the better. I was in the U.S. Navy for 6 years; as it stands now I have one d20 in the Atlantic Ocean, one d20 in the Indian Ocean, and two d20s in the Pacific ocean (one near Oahu, HI, and one near Adak, AK), and one d20 in the Huron River in Michigan.
--James

And Finally

During play, a fellow player had the tendency to shout a rather obscene name for a prostitute whenever his dice happened to roll low. After a couple sessions with him I suggested rather snarkily that he pay his dice, and that maybe he'd have better luck. I then handed him a quarter. He laughed and set the quarter down next to the die. His next roll was a 20. Being rather superstitious he set down another quarter next turn, and again rolled high. By the end of the night we all sat in rapt amazement as, so long as he paid his dice, he never seemed to roll under a 15. While this hasn't held true for subsequent gaming sessions, said player has been know to bring some spare change along with him to game night.

Dice Weirdos

The following tale of dice-daring comes to us from Dave Noonan, DMing a campaign with Stephen Schubert playing the role of a knife-throwing PC.

According to Dave, at the end of one encounter the PCs watched as their drow nemesis used a fly spell to escape yet again. By the time the PCs finished off his minions, the drow had already flown some distance away.


Yet at their feet, one of the slain minions had a bow in its possession…

Stephen’s character, a knife thrower, happened to have Rapid Shot and other ranged feats—so he grabbed hold of the bow. Sure, it would take a natural 20 to hit the drow, but why not give it a try?

Stephen rolled. And of course, it was a natural 20. But the story doesn’t end there.

He rolls again. Another 20. And again—another 20.

Assuming his drow to be safe, Dave instead watched as Stephen Schubert rolled five, yes five, natural 20s in a row. Suddenly, a very dead drow hung in the air…

Iconic to D&D are its strange, oddly-shaped dice. And so today, we look at this crucial element of the game—specifically, at the practice (some call it a science, others an art) of rolling these dice. We all have our rituals, superstitions and beliefs. In today’s column, we reveal dice rolling “secrets” from inside the halls of R&D and WotC, and invite you to share your own.

Probability

What are the odds of rolling five natural 20s in a row? Ask this website’s developer, and (somewhat) tongue-in-cheek, Mark Jindra will tell you that it’s a straight 5% chance to roll a 20 every time, regardless of what you rolled before; in essence, that dice “reset” each time they’re picked up.

But probability doesn’t quite work that way, does it? It looks at the odds of numbers occurring over time, and calculates that rolling five 20s in a row would be a 1 in 3,200,000 chance (that is: 1/20 x 1/20 x 1/20 x 1/20 x 1/20).

Hot Streaks

Still, there must be more to rolling 20s besides a pure numbers game, right? At least, we all like to believe this to be true... even, at times, the most rationale among us. Athletes find their zone, draining 3-point shot after shot. Casino players are loath to leave a hot seat at the table when they’re being dealt nothing but good cards. These are all variations on the theme of luck, and in many cases very important rituals come into play to keep these streaks alive. MLB pitchers might not shave during their hot streak. Card players might pick up or look at their cards only a certain way…


It’s much the same with D&D. We all know there’s more to rolling a natural 20 than a simple 5% chance every time. It’s all about the dice—the way we roll them, the way we treat them—that can affect this chance, either positively or negatively.

WotC Dice Rollers

So what do the folks here at WotC do, to improve their dice rolling?

Gwendolyn Kestrel: With my incarnate, I like to color code my dice: red d6s for mantle of flame, green d20 and d6s for dissolving spittle, etc.

Andrew Finch: The most extreme dice superstition I’ve seen was something called "prepping the dice". This ritual was preformed before making an important d20 roll, like against a save-or-die spell. It involved the individual taking as many d20 as they owned, 8 to 12 dice, and rolling them over and over, eliminating all the high rolling dice. The theory being that if you had a die that had just consistently rolled low, it was now due to roll high and could be used for the official roll.

Miranda Horner: My dice must sparkle or have an opalescent sheen or be otherwise glittery/sparkly/shiny. In fact, this is such a necessity that I prefer an unmatched set of sparkly goodness over a matched set of mundane flat colors. (Sometimes you lose one of your sparkly babies while you’re out gaming. It happens.)

I usually buy a whole new set of dice when I hit Gen Con, too. That becomes my starting set for the game, and last year’s set serves as relief should my newer set start supporting the efforts of those villains who seek to destroy or otherwise stymie my character!

Robert Mull: Not too weird, but I like to use a complete matching set of dice. If one of the dice consistently rolls badly, I swap out the entire set (of which I have many, many sets).

Andy Collins: One player in my Eberron game recently rolled multiple critical hits (with his x4 crit multiplier goliath greathammer, no less) in the same session after a many-level-long drought of natural 20s.

At the end of the game, he asked for his d20 to be set aside, so he’d be sure to have it next time. Since the d6s he was using for damage had also been pretty hot, he wanted put those in the cabinet with the d20. We all teased him a bit, but as the DM I humored him and “saved” the dice for him to use in the next game.

Sure enough, when using the same dice in the next month’s session, he scored another couple of crits, and rolled a remarkable number of 5s and 6s on the d6s. Back in the cabinet went those dice at the end.

We’re playing again this weekend. I’m pretty sure that if he manages another crit or two, those dice may never get back into the jar again.

Mike Mearls: (1) I always set my dice to stand with the highest number facing up. That trains the dice to roll high.

(2) I have a starting lineup that I pull out of my bag. I start with one of my blood red d20s. The key lies in knowing when to go to the bullpen. A die can give you a bunch of good rolls in a row, but if it tires out you don’t want to sling it that fifth time when it’s ready to pop out a 1. Other times, you want to take one for the team and roll lots of poor results, and let the good luck keep sliding to the other players. It all depends on the circumstances. On top of all this, you don’t want to pull a starter too soon. You can’t toss a faithful die just because it turns up a single 1.

(3) One of the really important things you have to do is alternate die colors. If that red d20 is spent, don’t go for another red. I try to go across the color spectrum with green, or maybe blue if I really need to change my luck.

(4) For D&D Minis, I bring only one die to the game. That lets the die know that I’m sticking with it through thick and thin. I drew a horrible warband for the latest league, but I still went 2 wins, 3 losses. On top of that, I pulled a hill giant barbarian and Shuluth in the booster I got for playing five games. I’m pretty sure that the Dice Gods rewarded my faith with that booster.

(5) If a die is done, do not put in back in your die bag. You got to air it out, let that bad luck dissipate. Try to push unlucky dice as close to the DM as possible.

(6) Never ever ever roll your damage dice at the same time as your attack, or roll multiple attacks at the same time. People say this method speeds up the game. In reality, all it does is take your good damage luck and mingle it with your bad d20 luck. I have seen more people roll max or near max damage on a 1 or 2 on their d20 than I care to recall. There’s no better way to anger the Dice Gods. Seriously, rolling damage when you roll your attack is presumptuous. You’re telling Fate that you assume you’re going to hit. Roll the dice only when you must, or if you need to test a die to see how it’s feeling.

(7) That reminds me, I like to test my dice. Give ‘em a few rolls to warm up, work those 1s out of their system. Natural 20s on warm-ups are a good sign. It shows that the die is ready to impress.

(8) Pick the right die for the job. I have a few sets of enormous dice that I use only with my Living Greyhawk characters. The blue set I bought for the Temple of Elemental Evil event at Origins ’01 is reserved solely for my halfling rogue in LG play. He survived to level 4 (and that was back in the day when a sack with 100 gp was a treasure worth a cert, and we liked it!). Don’t tell me about your “adventure records” and “treasure based on level”. I had a masterwork light crossbow and a thunderstone, and that’s all I needed to kill that howler, his stupid ogre buddy, and that half-elf ranger!

(9) Finally, for DMs: Always make critical rolls in front of the players. If you roll behind the screen too much, your dice will grow shy and they won’t perform as well when you play.