This month in "Expanding Your Mind" we bring you five new specialized feats dealing with astral constructs. The first feat, Advanced Construction, allows you to extend the list of abilities that your astral constructs can use, and it introduces new, more powerful Menu D selections as well. The second feat, Ecto Manipulation, allows you to trade in abilities for selections from a higher menu and gives you access to the new Menu D. The third feat, Extended Construction, increases the duration of your astral constructs to minutes instead of rounds. The fourth feat, Enhanced Construction, increases the number of constructs that you create every time you manifest an astral construct power. The fifth and final feat, Infused Construction, allows you to increase your metapsionic cap for the purposes of manifesting astral construct powers. Finally, we bring you four new astral construct themed psionic items for your enjoyment.
Advanced Construction [Psionic]
You can choose special abilities for your construct from an extended list.
Prerequisite: Augment Construction.
Benefit: You can add new special abilities to the list of special abilities from which you can choose when manifesting astral constructs. When you take this feat, you can select from Table 1-1: Advanced Construction Special Abilities a number of Menu A special abilities that equal twice your manifester level. When you make a selection, that ability is permanently added to the selection from which you can choose when manifesting astral constructs. For each manifester level that you gain, you can select two additional special abilities from Menu A. You can trade in two selections from Menu A for one selection from Menu B. You can elect to postpone your selections until you gain another level. If you have postponed a selection from an earlier level, you can trade in four Menu A selections for one selection from the Menu C. If you have postponed selections so that you have eight Menu A selections available, you can trade them for a selection from the D menu.
Table 1-1: Advanced Construction Special Abilities
Menu A
Brawn (Ex): Construct does an additional +1 point of damage on a successful melee attack. (Multiple selections stack, and you cannot select this ability more than 8 times.)
Claws (Ex): The construct has razor sharp claws. Attacks are now considered claw attacks instead of slams. Damage from these claw attacks is 1d8 + Strength modifier. The claw attacks are considered slashing or piercing weapons. The type is chosen when the construct is manifested. (If the construct has the extra arms ability, this ability must be chosen twice to affect both sets of arms.)
Cleave (Ex): The cleave extraordinary ability works as the Cleave feat, and though no prerequisites are required (Str 13+, Power Attack), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Dodge (Ex): The dodge extraordinary ability works as the Dodge feat, and though no prerequisites are required (Dex 13+), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Improved Bull Rush (Ex): The improved bull rush extraordinary ability works as the Improved Bull Rush feat, and though no prerequisites are required (Str 13+, Power Attack), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Power Attack (Ex): The power attack extraordinary ability works as the Power Attack feat, and though no prerequisites are required (Str 13+), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Spiked Armor (Ex):The construct's body is covered in spikes. The spikes allow the construct to deal 1d6 points of piercing damage (x2 critical) with a successful trample, squeeze, bull rush, or grapple attack.
Menu B
Astral Repair (Ex): The astral construct heals 2 hit points each round so long as it has at least 1 hit point.
Carapace (Ex): The construct's surface forms hard, armorlike plates. The construct gains a damage reduction of 10/+1. This replaces any damage reduction the construct might already have.
Energy Touch (Ex): The construct's physical attacks do 1d4 points of energy damage (fire, cold, electricity, sonic, acid) in addition to their standard damage. The type of energy is chosen when the construct is manifested. (Multiple selections stack and may be of different energy types. You cannot select this ability more than 5 times.)
Extra Arms (Ex): The construct has an additional set of arms and can make an additional attack with an attack bonus equal to its highest attack bonus -2. (A construct with squeeze or rend can use that ability with these arms, as well.) This ability cannot be chosen more than once.)
Expertise (Ex): The expertise extraordinary ability works as the Expertise feat, and though no prerequisites are required (Int 13+), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Great Cleave(Ex): The great cleave extraordinary ability works as the Great Cleave feat, and though no prerequisites are required (Str +13, Power Attack, Cleave, base attack bonus +4 or higher), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Improved Critical (Ex): The improved critical extraordinary ability works as the Improved Critical feat, and though no prerequisites are required (proficient with weapon, base attack bonus +8 or higher), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Improved Fly (Ex): Construct has physical wings (12-foot wingspan) and a speed of 120 feet (average). (This is similar to the power in the Psionics Handbook, though slower.)
Improved Swim (Ex): Construct becomes streamlined and sharklike with a large (8-foot-wide) tail. Its speed is 120 feet.
Mobility(Ex): The mobility extraordinary ability works as the Mobility feat, and though no prerequisites are required (Dex 13+, Dodge), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Poison Touch (Ex): The construct is covered in a shimmering purple liquid. If the construct hits with a melee attack, the target must make an initial Fortitude save (DC 15) or take 1d2 points of temporary Wisdom damage. A minute later, the target must save again (Fortitude save DC 15) or lose 1d4 points of temporary Wisdom damage.
Reach(Ex): The construct's arms elongate, which increases its reach by 5 feet. (If the construct has the extra arms ability, this ability must be chosen twice to affect both sets of arms.)
Spike Volley (Ex):The construct can send forth a volley of 3 spikes as a standard action. This ranged attack has a range of 120 feet with no range increment. These spike attacks are treated as thrown weapons, so the construct's Strength bonus is applied to damage (see page 97 of the Player's Handbook for more on thrown weapons). Damage is 1d6 + Strength modifier per spike. The construct can use this attack up to three times. (The construct must have the spiked armor ability to use this attack.) This volley can be fired in any direction (including straight up) regardless of the direction the construct is facing.
Stunning Fist(Ex):The stunning fist extraordinary ability works as the Stunning Fist feat, and though no prerequisites are required (Dex 13+, Improved Unarmed Strike, Wis 13+, base attack bonus +8 or higher), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Tough (Ex): The construct receives 7 hit points per die, instead of 5.5 per die.
Menu C
Ectoplasmic Form (Sp): The construct manifests ectoplasmic form as a standard action.
Hardened Carapace (Ex): The construct's surface forms hard, armorlike plates. The construct gains a damage reduction of 15/+2. This replaces any damage reduction the construct might already have.
Power Resistance (Ex): The construct gains a power resistance of 5 + the construct's Hit Dice. This ability can be chosen multiple times and adds 5 to the power resistance of the construct. For example, choosing this ability three times for an astral construct IX would give a total power resistance of 34 (19 + 5 + 5 +5 = 34)
Rend (Ex): A construct that hits with its claw attack does an additional 2d6 + 1.5 times its Strength modifier points of damage. (It must also have the claws ability; see entry above. A construct cannot use squeeze and rend in the same round.)
Spike Flurry (Ex):The construct can send forth a hail of spikes as a standard action. The attack is a cone shape with a range of 60 feet. Anyone caught in the flurry is immediately struck by 2d4 spikes that deal 1d6 damage each. A successful Reflex save (DC 13) halves the damage. This attack can be used only once. (The construct must have the spiked armor ability to use this attack.)
Spring Attack(Ex): The spring attack extraordinary ability works as the Spring Attack feat, and though no prerequisites are required, constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Tail Slap (Ex): The construct has a tail and gains one additional slam attack with an attack bonus equal to its highest attack bonus -2, and it deals damage of 2d8 + 1.5 times its Strength modifier (A construct cannot have a tail if it has extra arms.)
Tougher (Ex): The construct receives 8.5 hit points per die, instead of 5.5 per die.
Whirlwind Attack(Ex): The whirlwind attack extraordinary ability works as the Whirlwind Attack feat, and though no prerequisites are required (Int 13+, Expertise, Dex 13+, Dodge, Mobility, base attack bonus +4 or higher, Spring Attack), constructs do not get the benefits from the prerequisites, either.
Menu D
Amplified Invisibility (Sp): The construct manifests amplified invisibility (self only) as a standard action.
Extra Hard Carapace (Ex): The construct's surface forms hard, armorlike plates. The construct gains a damage reduction of 20/+3. This replaces any damage reduction the construct might already have.
Mass Concussion (Sp): The construct manifests massconcussion as a free action 3 times per day.
Super Buff (Ex): The construct gains 17d10 temporary hit points. Multiple selections do not stack.
Toughest (Ex): The construct receives 10 hit points per die, instead of 5.5 per die.
Ultraheavy Armor (Ex): The construct gains a +10 deflection bonus to AC.
Whitefire Aura (Ex): The entire surface of the construct radiates with an intense white-hot flame. Creatures within 5 feet of the construct take 5d4 points of damage. The fire ignites combustibles as the whitefire power. Once activated, the aura burns for a number of rounds equal to half of the construct's Hit Dice. Multiple selections do not stack.
Ecto Manipulation [Psionic]
You can manifest a more powerful astral construct at the expense of flexibility.
Prerequisite: Manifester level 3rd+, Augment Construction.
Benefit: When you manifest an astral construct, you can trade in two abilities from the same menu for an ability from the next highest menu. For example when manifesting astral construct VI you can trade in two Menu B selections for a single Menu C selection.
Extended Construction [Psionic]
You gain an increased duration on your manifested astral constructs.
Prerequisite: Manifester level 3rd+, Augment Construction, Ecto Manipulation.
Benefit: Astral constructs that you manifest have a duration of 1 minute per manifester level instead of their normal duration. For example a 13th-level psion manifests astral construct VI, creating a single type VI construct with a duration of 13 minutes
Enhanced Construction [Psionic]
When you manifest constructs, you create additional constructs.
Prerequisite: Manifester level 6th+.
Benefit: When you manifest constructs, you create additional bonus constructs. You create 1d3 bonus constructs of at least two levels below the astral construct power you are manifesting. For example, when a 13th-level psion manifests astral construct VI, she not only gets to choose the construct that normally manifests with the spell, but she also receives 1d3 constructs of her choice of type from I to IV.
Infused Construction [Psionic]
You increase your metapsionic cap and can spend more power points manifesting astral constructs that are modified by metapsionic feats than would normally be possible.
Prerequisite: Manifester level 6th+.
Benefit: Your metapsionic cap is increased to a number of power points equal to your manifester level + 2 for purposes of manifesting astral constructs. For example, a 13th-level psion with a metapsionic cap of 12 would have that cap raised to 15 for purposes of manifesting astral constructs.
Special: You can take this feat multiple times. Each time you take this feat beyond the first, you can add 2 power points to the metapsionic cap for purposes of manifesting astral constructs. Your new cap cannot exceed double your base metapsionic cap. For example, a 13th-level psion who has taken this feat 3 times can spend her normal 12 power points plus an additional 7 power points for a total of 19 power points. This would allow her to manifest astral construct VI, with the metapsionic feat Maximize Power applied to it (11 + 6 = 17 power points) that she could not normally have manifested with the standard metapsionic cap of manifester level - 1 (13 - 1 = 12 power points).
Psionic Items
Amulet of Advanced Construction: When worn, the amulet of advanced construction grants the wearer additional special abilities from which he or she can select when manifesting astral constructs. These menu items must be from the table provided in the Advanced Construction feat. When crafted, the selections are set in the amulet and can consist of either 4 Menu A selections, 2 Menu B selections, or 1 Menu C selection.
Manifester Level: 14th; Prerequisites: Craft Universal Item, Advanced Construction, Astral Construct VII; Market Price: 10,000 gp; Weight: --.
Gloves of Ecto Manipulation:Gloves of ecto manipulation are thin leather gloves that are very flexible and are usually adorned with several small gemstones. When worn, they grant the wearer the ability to manipulate astral constructs as the Ecto Manipulation feat.
Manifester Level: 10th; Prerequisites: Craft Universal Item,Ecto Manipulation; Market Price: 10,000 gp; Weight: --.
Crystalline Construct: A crystalline construct is a small crystal figurine that resembles a tiny astral construct. When placed on the ground, and when a command word is spoken, the crystal animates into an astral construct as per the astral construct V power. The construct has the same menu choices each time it is summoned, and the figurine resembles the final construct form. It obeys the commands of the owner.
If the crystalline construct figurine is broken, the power within it is lost. If the construct is destroyed or dismissed while activated, it reverts back into the figurine. The construct can be brought forth once per day for 10 rounds. The figurine has an AC of 7, 6 hit points, hardness of 8, and a break DC of 20.
Manifester Level: 10th; Prerequisites: Craft Universal Item, astral construct V; Market Price: 40,000 gp; Weight: --.
Sling Bullets of the Construct: Sling bullets of the construct appear to be sling bullets made of crystal instead of lead. They do normal sling bullet damage and have a +1 enhancement bonus to hit. Upon striking a target, the sling bullet brings forth a single astral construct that immediately begins to attack the target. Typically, 2-5 bullets are found.
http://wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/pse/20020727c
Friday, February 23, 2007
All About Sneak Attacks (Part Three)
We'll end our look at "beyond the basics" situations and dive right into the damage a sneak attack does as well as go over the number of sneak attacks you can do.
Defender Flanked
Creatures become susceptible to sneak attacks when flanked because they must divide their attention between two or more opponents whose relative positions make it difficult to block or dodge their attacks. The situation is something like dealing with an unseen foe, but isn't quite as severe.
To flank an opponent, two allies must be on opposite sides of that opponent, and they both must threaten the opponent (Chapter 8 in the Player's Handbook has some handy diagrams that explain flanking). You threaten an opponent when you can make an armed melee attack against that opponent. You're "armed" when you use a manufactured weapon, natural weapon, the Improved Unarmed Strike feat, or the monk's unarmed strike ability. You don't actually have to have a weapon that can hurt an opponent to threaten that opponent. If you and your buddy have no silver weapons but find yourselves on opposites sides of a werewolf, you still flank the werewolf (but see the final section of this article series).
You can flank with any melee weapon, including a reach weapon, but you cannot flank with a ranged weapon.
You get a flanking bonus from any ally your foe can see (and who is in the correct position to flank). If your foe can't see you, you don't provide a flanking bonus to any ally. You literally cannot flank a blind creature; however, a blind creature loses its Dexterity bonus to Armor Class against your attacks (so you can sneak attack it), and you get a +2 to attack it to boot. Creatures with the blindsight ability effectively "see" within blindsight range and can be flanked.
The improved uncanny dodge class ability can prevent a creature from being flanked (see the next section).
Uncanny Dodge and Sneak Attacks
The uncanny dodge class ability is just about the nastiest sneak attack breaker in the game. Only immunity to critical hits offers more absolute protection against sneak attacks. So, uncanny dodge gets a section in the article all to itself.
The uncanny dodge ability allows a flat-footed creature to retain its Dexterity bonus to Armor Class (if any) and it foils sneak attacks when in does so.
The uncanny dodge ability also allows a creature to use its Dexterity bonus (if any) against unseen foes, so an unseen foe must find some other way to make sneak attacks against creatures with this ability.
Uncanny dodge does not allow a creature to keep its Dexterity bonus to Armor Class (if any) when it physically cannot move. If you're grappled, held, helpless, incapacitated, pinned, or stunned, you lose your Dexterity bonus to Armor Class. If you're attacked while climbing, you also cannot use your Dexterity bonus to Armor Class. Uncanny dodge doesn't allow you to retain your Dexterity bonus to Armor Class in any of these cases.
The improved uncanny dodge class feature can keep a creature from being flanked, except by a rogue who is four or more levels higher than the target. An attacker with sufficient rogue levels can flank the defender simply by having an ally opposite the defender, if that ally cannot flank the defender himself, provided that the defender can see or perceive your ally (see the section on flanking). In such a case, the ally gets no benefit for being in a flanking position, but the rogue gets full benefits.
When determining who can flank whom, start by counting the target's levels, and count only those levels in classes that provide the uncanny dodge class feature. Then count up the attacker's levels, counting only levels in classes that provide the sneak attack class feature. For example, a 10th-level rogue could not flank a 5th-level barbarian/5th-level rogue but the same character could flank a 5th-level barbarian/5th-level bard. Likewise, a 7th-level rogue/7th-level assassin could flank a 5th-level barbarian/5th-level rogue.
Damage from Sneak Attacks
The bonus damage from a sneak attack is expressed as extra dice and it is not multiplied with a successful critical hit, or when an attack otherwise gets a damage multiplier. For example, a rogue charging with a mounted lance can make a sneak attack, but the damage multiplier for the mounted charge doesn't apply to the sneak attack.
A successful sneak attack increases the damage dealt. When you make a sneak attack against a foe with damage reduction, roll the sneak damage and add it to the damage from the hit before applying the effects of damage reduction.
Sneak attack damage is always the same type of damage as the weapon used to make the sneak attack. For example, if you make a sneak attack with a sword (a slashing weapon), all the damage from the sneak attack is slashing damage (also see the Spells as Sneak Attacks section in Part Four).
Number of Sneak Attacks
Provided it is possible for you to make a sneak attack at all, you can make multiple sneak attacks when you use the full attack action. For example, if you have a higher initiative result at the beginning of an encounter, your foe is flat-footed and every attack you make is a sneak attack. The same is true if you flank your foe.
Anything that allows you to make extra attacks during the full attack action gets you extra sneak attacks as well: fighting with two weapons, the haste spell, and the monk's flurry of blows are the most common ways of getting extra attacks.
Remember the earlier note about invisibility effects, however. If you're relying on invisibility to set up a sneak attack, you'll only have the effect for the first attack you make during your turn. You'll still get all your extra attacks, but only the first will be a sneak attack. You don't have this problem if you're using a greaterinvisibility effect.
http://wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/rg/20040302a
Defender Flanked
Creatures become susceptible to sneak attacks when flanked because they must divide their attention between two or more opponents whose relative positions make it difficult to block or dodge their attacks. The situation is something like dealing with an unseen foe, but isn't quite as severe.
To flank an opponent, two allies must be on opposite sides of that opponent, and they both must threaten the opponent (Chapter 8 in the Player's Handbook has some handy diagrams that explain flanking). You threaten an opponent when you can make an armed melee attack against that opponent. You're "armed" when you use a manufactured weapon, natural weapon, the Improved Unarmed Strike feat, or the monk's unarmed strike ability. You don't actually have to have a weapon that can hurt an opponent to threaten that opponent. If you and your buddy have no silver weapons but find yourselves on opposites sides of a werewolf, you still flank the werewolf (but see the final section of this article series).
You can flank with any melee weapon, including a reach weapon, but you cannot flank with a ranged weapon.
You get a flanking bonus from any ally your foe can see (and who is in the correct position to flank). If your foe can't see you, you don't provide a flanking bonus to any ally. You literally cannot flank a blind creature; however, a blind creature loses its Dexterity bonus to Armor Class against your attacks (so you can sneak attack it), and you get a +2 to attack it to boot. Creatures with the blindsight ability effectively "see" within blindsight range and can be flanked.
The improved uncanny dodge class ability can prevent a creature from being flanked (see the next section).
Uncanny Dodge and Sneak Attacks
The uncanny dodge class ability is just about the nastiest sneak attack breaker in the game. Only immunity to critical hits offers more absolute protection against sneak attacks. So, uncanny dodge gets a section in the article all to itself.
The uncanny dodge ability allows a flat-footed creature to retain its Dexterity bonus to Armor Class (if any) and it foils sneak attacks when in does so.
The uncanny dodge ability also allows a creature to use its Dexterity bonus (if any) against unseen foes, so an unseen foe must find some other way to make sneak attacks against creatures with this ability.
Uncanny dodge does not allow a creature to keep its Dexterity bonus to Armor Class (if any) when it physically cannot move. If you're grappled, held, helpless, incapacitated, pinned, or stunned, you lose your Dexterity bonus to Armor Class. If you're attacked while climbing, you also cannot use your Dexterity bonus to Armor Class. Uncanny dodge doesn't allow you to retain your Dexterity bonus to Armor Class in any of these cases.
The improved uncanny dodge class feature can keep a creature from being flanked, except by a rogue who is four or more levels higher than the target. An attacker with sufficient rogue levels can flank the defender simply by having an ally opposite the defender, if that ally cannot flank the defender himself, provided that the defender can see or perceive your ally (see the section on flanking). In such a case, the ally gets no benefit for being in a flanking position, but the rogue gets full benefits.
When determining who can flank whom, start by counting the target's levels, and count only those levels in classes that provide the uncanny dodge class feature. Then count up the attacker's levels, counting only levels in classes that provide the sneak attack class feature. For example, a 10th-level rogue could not flank a 5th-level barbarian/5th-level rogue but the same character could flank a 5th-level barbarian/5th-level bard. Likewise, a 7th-level rogue/7th-level assassin could flank a 5th-level barbarian/5th-level rogue.
Damage from Sneak Attacks
The bonus damage from a sneak attack is expressed as extra dice and it is not multiplied with a successful critical hit, or when an attack otherwise gets a damage multiplier. For example, a rogue charging with a mounted lance can make a sneak attack, but the damage multiplier for the mounted charge doesn't apply to the sneak attack.
A successful sneak attack increases the damage dealt. When you make a sneak attack against a foe with damage reduction, roll the sneak damage and add it to the damage from the hit before applying the effects of damage reduction.
Sneak attack damage is always the same type of damage as the weapon used to make the sneak attack. For example, if you make a sneak attack with a sword (a slashing weapon), all the damage from the sneak attack is slashing damage (also see the Spells as Sneak Attacks section in Part Four).
Number of Sneak Attacks
Provided it is possible for you to make a sneak attack at all, you can make multiple sneak attacks when you use the full attack action. For example, if you have a higher initiative result at the beginning of an encounter, your foe is flat-footed and every attack you make is a sneak attack. The same is true if you flank your foe.
Anything that allows you to make extra attacks during the full attack action gets you extra sneak attacks as well: fighting with two weapons, the haste spell, and the monk's flurry of blows are the most common ways of getting extra attacks.
Remember the earlier note about invisibility effects, however. If you're relying on invisibility to set up a sneak attack, you'll only have the effect for the first attack you make during your turn. You'll still get all your extra attacks, but only the first will be a sneak attack. You don't have this problem if you're using a greaterinvisibility effect.
http://wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/rg/20040302a
Making Magic Items (Part Four)
Thus far, we've examined scroll, potion, wand, and staff creation. All these items are essentially spell storage devices, which makes figuring out their costs fairly straightforward. Many items, such as those we'll examine this week, have powers that spells don't duplicate (or don't duplicate very well), and creating those takes some extra effort on the parts of players and DMs because pricing them can prove more difficult to determine than prices for spell storage items.
Still, duplicating items that already are described in the rules isn't terribly daunting.
Creating Weapons, Armor, and Shields
Any of these items can prove fairly easy to create, particularly when an enhancement bonus is the only magical property the item has. Some items of this kind have a wide array of powers; fortunately, most of these extra powers merely increase the item's effective enhancement bonus, which makes them fairly easy to handle.
Prerequisites: To make a magic weapon, armor, or shield, you need the Craft Magic Arms and Armor item creation feat. (The feat itself has a caster level of 5th as a prerequisite.) The creator also must have a caster level at least three times the enhancement bonus of the weapon, armor, or shield. If the item has a special ability that is priced as an enhancement bonus increase (see the section on costs), that ability has its own caster level requirement (as shown in the description for the special ability), and the creator must meet the higher of the two caster level prerequisites. For example, to create a +2 longsword, a character must have a caster level of at least 6th. The keen weapon property has a caster level of 10th. To create a +2 keen longsword, a character must have a caster level of at least 10th, which is the higher of the two prerequisites. This item would be priced as a +3 magic weapon, but the caster level prerequisite is still 10th, not 9th (as it would be if the weapon's actual enhancement bonus was +3).
If any spells are listed among the item's prerequisites (or among the prerequisites for any special properties it has), you need to have those spells prepared each day you work on the item (or you must know the spells, in the case of a bard or sorcerer). Each day you work on the items, the prerequisite spells are used up, just as they are for a scroll.
Caster Level: A weapon, suit of armor, or a shield that has only an enhancement bonus has a caster level equal to three times the enhancement bonus. A special ability for a weapon, suit of armor, or a shield has a caster level given in its description. A weapon, suit of armor, or a shield with a special ability must have an enhancement bonus of at least +1 to have a special ability, and the item uses the highest caster level.
These caster levels are fixed -- the creator cannot adjust them as he can for a scroll, potion, wand or staff.
Equipment and Materials: To make a magic weapon, suit of armor, or shield, you need a set of tools suitable for working the material from which the item is made, such as metalworking tools for a magic longsword. You also need a masterwork item to receive the magic, a fire source, and a collection of oddments similar to materials used to create wands. The rules don't specify the kind of fire source, but a small brazier, campfire, fireplace, or furnace should suffice. The cost for the fire is subsumed in the basic cost for materials, as is the cost of the sundry other materials you need.
Cost: The base cost for the item's enhancement bonus is shown on Table 7-2 or 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide. The base cost for any special abilities of the item is shown in the descriptions for those abilities. Some items have costs expressed in gold pieces, and such costs are added directly to the base cost for the item's enhancement. Most weapon, armor, or shield special abilities, however, are expressed as increases to the item's enhancement bonus (more about that in Part Seven). To determine the cost for such a special ability, apply the modifier to the item's actual enhancement bonus and use the cost for the increased bonus from Table 7-2 or 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide. It's possible for one item to have both kinds of special abilities; in that case, add up the actual enhancement bonus and the modifiers to it and determine the base cost for the effective bonus, then add the costs for any special abilities that have costs expressed in gold pieces.
Creation Cost: The monetary cost to create a magic weapon, suit of armor, or shield is half the base price, plus the cost of the masterwork item.
The experience cost to create the item is 1/25th the base price.
If the item (or its special properties) has a prerequisite spell that has an extra monetary or XP cost, you generally do not have to pay those costs to make the item. That is because weapons, suits of armor, or shields usually do not produce spells, so you just need to understand a particular set of spells to create the magic that the item requires.
Market Price: The market price for a weapon, suit of armor, or shield is the base price, plus the cost of the masterwork item.
Example Weapon, Armor, and Shield Costs: A +2 keen longsword would have a base price of 18,000 gp and a market price of 18,315 gp calculated as follows:
The actual enhancement bonus is +2 and the keen property adds +1 to that for an effective bonus of +3. A +3 weapon has a base price of 18,000 gp according to Table 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide. The cost to create this weapon is half the base price (9,000 gp) plus the cost of a masterwork longsword (315 gp). The experience cost to create the weapon is 1/25th the base price, or 720 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the masterwork longsword (18,000 gp + 315 gp = 18,315 gp).
This weapon would have a caster level of 10th, which is the caster level for the keen property because that is higher than the caster level for the actual enhancement bonus, which is 6th (3 x 2).
A +1 chain shirt of silent moves would have a base price of 4,750 gp and a market price of 5,000 gp calculated as follows:
The enhancement bonus is +1 and the silent moves property adds 3,750 gp to the base price. The base price for +1 armor is 1,000 gp according to Table 7-2 in the Dungeon Master's Guide (1,000 gp + 3,750 gp = 4,750 gp). The experience cost to create the armor is 1/25th the base price, or 190 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the masterwork chain shirt (4,750 gp + 250 gp = 5,000 gp).
The caster level for the silent moves property is 5th and the caster level for the actual +1 enhancement is 3rd, so the armor has a caster level of 5th.
A +3 heavy steel shield of bashing and undead controlling would have a base price of 65,000 gp and a market price of 65,170 gp calculated as follows:
The enhancement bonus is +3. The bashing property adds +1 to that for an effective bonus of +4. The undead controlling property adds 49,000 gp to the base price.
The base price for +4 armor is 16,000 gp according to Table 7-2 in the Dungeon Master's Guide (16,000 gp + 49,000 gp = 65,000 gp). The experience cost to create the shield is 1/25th the base price, or 2,600 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the masterwork heavy steel shield (65,000 gp + 170 gp = 65,170 gp).
The caster level for the bashing property is 8th, the caster level for the undead controlling property is 13th, and the caster level for the actual +3 enhancement is 9th, so the shield has a caster level of 13th.
Weapon, Armor, and Shield Miscellany: No weapon, armor, or shield made with the Craft Magic Arms and Armor feat can have an actual enhancement bonus higher than +5 or an effective enhancement bonus (after adjustments for special abilities) higher than +10. The epic rules allow epic item creators to break these limits. When special properties have prices expressed in gold pieces, there is no limit to the number of those properties you can add, even if you're not playing an epic game. However, the limits on how much experience a character can spend at once (see Part One) set a practical limit on how powerful an item a non-epic character can make.
When a magic weapon, suit of armor, or shield is made from a special material, such as adamantine or mithral, the cost for the special material replaces the masterwork cost for the item because the costs for special materials generally include the cost for a masterwork item (check the special material's description to be sure). For example, a +2 adamantine keen longsword would have a base price of 18,000 gp and a market price of 21,015 gp calculated as follows:
The actual enhancement bonus is +2 and the keen property adds +1 to that for an effective bonus of +3. A +3 weapon has a base price of 18,000 gp according to Table 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide. The cost to create this weapon is half the base price (9,000 gp) plus the cost of an adamantinelongsword (3,015 gp). The experience cost to create the weapon is 1/25th the base price, or 720 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the adamantine longsword (18,000 gp + 3,015 gp = 21,015 gp).
Cold iron doubles the cost for an item (but not the cost to make it a masterwork item). In addition, cold iron naturally resists magic and is harder to enspell than other materials. Add 2,000 gp to the cost of an item's enhancement bonus and special abilities. According the D&D FAQ, however, you add the 2,000 gp only once if you're adding multiple abilities. For example, a +2 cold iron keen longsword would have a base price of 20,000 gp and a market price of 20,330 gp calculated as follows:
The actual enhancement bonus is +2 and the keen property adds +1 to that for an effective bonus of +3. A +3 weapon has a base price of 18,000 gp according to Table 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide, plus 2,000 for working with a cold iron item. The cost to create this weapon is half the base price (9,000 gp) plus the cost of a cold iron longsword (330 gp). The experience cost to create the weapon is 1/25th the base price, or 800 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the cold iron longsword (20,000 gp + 330 gp = 20,330 gp).
When creating a magic weapon, you have the option to have the weapon shed light when drawn. Doing so does not alter the cost to make or buy the weapon. Weapons that shed light do so continually and the light is as bright as a light spell (see page 221 in the Dungeon Master's Guide).
Creating a magic double weapon works just like creating two magic weapons, except that you add the cost of a masterwork weapon only once. For example, a dire flail that has +1 enhancement bonus at each end has a base price of 4,000 gp (2,000 gp for +1 enhancement x 2). The monetary cost to create the weapon is 2,000 gp plus 690 gp for a masterwork dire flail. The experience cost to create the weapon is 1/25th of the base cost (160 XP). The market price 4,690 gp (4,000 gp + 690 gp). A crafter can create a magic double weapon with only one magic end.
What's Next?
So, we've tackled weapons, armor, and shields. Next week, we'll look at what's involved in creating rings.
http://wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/rg/20041228a
Still, duplicating items that already are described in the rules isn't terribly daunting.
Creating Weapons, Armor, and Shields
Any of these items can prove fairly easy to create, particularly when an enhancement bonus is the only magical property the item has. Some items of this kind have a wide array of powers; fortunately, most of these extra powers merely increase the item's effective enhancement bonus, which makes them fairly easy to handle.
Prerequisites: To make a magic weapon, armor, or shield, you need the Craft Magic Arms and Armor item creation feat. (The feat itself has a caster level of 5th as a prerequisite.) The creator also must have a caster level at least three times the enhancement bonus of the weapon, armor, or shield. If the item has a special ability that is priced as an enhancement bonus increase (see the section on costs), that ability has its own caster level requirement (as shown in the description for the special ability), and the creator must meet the higher of the two caster level prerequisites. For example, to create a +2 longsword, a character must have a caster level of at least 6th. The keen weapon property has a caster level of 10th. To create a +2 keen longsword, a character must have a caster level of at least 10th, which is the higher of the two prerequisites. This item would be priced as a +3 magic weapon, but the caster level prerequisite is still 10th, not 9th (as it would be if the weapon's actual enhancement bonus was +3).
If any spells are listed among the item's prerequisites (or among the prerequisites for any special properties it has), you need to have those spells prepared each day you work on the item (or you must know the spells, in the case of a bard or sorcerer). Each day you work on the items, the prerequisite spells are used up, just as they are for a scroll.
Caster Level: A weapon, suit of armor, or a shield that has only an enhancement bonus has a caster level equal to three times the enhancement bonus. A special ability for a weapon, suit of armor, or a shield has a caster level given in its description. A weapon, suit of armor, or a shield with a special ability must have an enhancement bonus of at least +1 to have a special ability, and the item uses the highest caster level.
These caster levels are fixed -- the creator cannot adjust them as he can for a scroll, potion, wand or staff.
Equipment and Materials: To make a magic weapon, suit of armor, or shield, you need a set of tools suitable for working the material from which the item is made, such as metalworking tools for a magic longsword. You also need a masterwork item to receive the magic, a fire source, and a collection of oddments similar to materials used to create wands. The rules don't specify the kind of fire source, but a small brazier, campfire, fireplace, or furnace should suffice. The cost for the fire is subsumed in the basic cost for materials, as is the cost of the sundry other materials you need.
Cost: The base cost for the item's enhancement bonus is shown on Table 7-2 or 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide. The base cost for any special abilities of the item is shown in the descriptions for those abilities. Some items have costs expressed in gold pieces, and such costs are added directly to the base cost for the item's enhancement. Most weapon, armor, or shield special abilities, however, are expressed as increases to the item's enhancement bonus (more about that in Part Seven). To determine the cost for such a special ability, apply the modifier to the item's actual enhancement bonus and use the cost for the increased bonus from Table 7-2 or 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide. It's possible for one item to have both kinds of special abilities; in that case, add up the actual enhancement bonus and the modifiers to it and determine the base cost for the effective bonus, then add the costs for any special abilities that have costs expressed in gold pieces.
Creation Cost: The monetary cost to create a magic weapon, suit of armor, or shield is half the base price, plus the cost of the masterwork item.
The experience cost to create the item is 1/25th the base price.
If the item (or its special properties) has a prerequisite spell that has an extra monetary or XP cost, you generally do not have to pay those costs to make the item. That is because weapons, suits of armor, or shields usually do not produce spells, so you just need to understand a particular set of spells to create the magic that the item requires.
Market Price: The market price for a weapon, suit of armor, or shield is the base price, plus the cost of the masterwork item.
Example Weapon, Armor, and Shield Costs: A +2 keen longsword would have a base price of 18,000 gp and a market price of 18,315 gp calculated as follows:
The actual enhancement bonus is +2 and the keen property adds +1 to that for an effective bonus of +3. A +3 weapon has a base price of 18,000 gp according to Table 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide. The cost to create this weapon is half the base price (9,000 gp) plus the cost of a masterwork longsword (315 gp). The experience cost to create the weapon is 1/25th the base price, or 720 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the masterwork longsword (18,000 gp + 315 gp = 18,315 gp).
This weapon would have a caster level of 10th, which is the caster level for the keen property because that is higher than the caster level for the actual enhancement bonus, which is 6th (3 x 2).
A +1 chain shirt of silent moves would have a base price of 4,750 gp and a market price of 5,000 gp calculated as follows:
The enhancement bonus is +1 and the silent moves property adds 3,750 gp to the base price. The base price for +1 armor is 1,000 gp according to Table 7-2 in the Dungeon Master's Guide (1,000 gp + 3,750 gp = 4,750 gp). The experience cost to create the armor is 1/25th the base price, or 190 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the masterwork chain shirt (4,750 gp + 250 gp = 5,000 gp).
The caster level for the silent moves property is 5th and the caster level for the actual +1 enhancement is 3rd, so the armor has a caster level of 5th.
A +3 heavy steel shield of bashing and undead controlling would have a base price of 65,000 gp and a market price of 65,170 gp calculated as follows:
The enhancement bonus is +3. The bashing property adds +1 to that for an effective bonus of +4. The undead controlling property adds 49,000 gp to the base price.
The base price for +4 armor is 16,000 gp according to Table 7-2 in the Dungeon Master's Guide (16,000 gp + 49,000 gp = 65,000 gp). The experience cost to create the shield is 1/25th the base price, or 2,600 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the masterwork heavy steel shield (65,000 gp + 170 gp = 65,170 gp).
The caster level for the bashing property is 8th, the caster level for the undead controlling property is 13th, and the caster level for the actual +3 enhancement is 9th, so the shield has a caster level of 13th.
Weapon, Armor, and Shield Miscellany: No weapon, armor, or shield made with the Craft Magic Arms and Armor feat can have an actual enhancement bonus higher than +5 or an effective enhancement bonus (after adjustments for special abilities) higher than +10. The epic rules allow epic item creators to break these limits. When special properties have prices expressed in gold pieces, there is no limit to the number of those properties you can add, even if you're not playing an epic game. However, the limits on how much experience a character can spend at once (see Part One) set a practical limit on how powerful an item a non-epic character can make.
When a magic weapon, suit of armor, or shield is made from a special material, such as adamantine or mithral, the cost for the special material replaces the masterwork cost for the item because the costs for special materials generally include the cost for a masterwork item (check the special material's description to be sure). For example, a +2 adamantine keen longsword would have a base price of 18,000 gp and a market price of 21,015 gp calculated as follows:
The actual enhancement bonus is +2 and the keen property adds +1 to that for an effective bonus of +3. A +3 weapon has a base price of 18,000 gp according to Table 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide. The cost to create this weapon is half the base price (9,000 gp) plus the cost of an adamantinelongsword (3,015 gp). The experience cost to create the weapon is 1/25th the base price, or 720 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the adamantine longsword (18,000 gp + 3,015 gp = 21,015 gp).
Cold iron doubles the cost for an item (but not the cost to make it a masterwork item). In addition, cold iron naturally resists magic and is harder to enspell than other materials. Add 2,000 gp to the cost of an item's enhancement bonus and special abilities. According the D&D FAQ, however, you add the 2,000 gp only once if you're adding multiple abilities. For example, a +2 cold iron keen longsword would have a base price of 20,000 gp and a market price of 20,330 gp calculated as follows:
The actual enhancement bonus is +2 and the keen property adds +1 to that for an effective bonus of +3. A +3 weapon has a base price of 18,000 gp according to Table 7-9 in the Dungeon Master's Guide, plus 2,000 for working with a cold iron item. The cost to create this weapon is half the base price (9,000 gp) plus the cost of a cold iron longsword (330 gp). The experience cost to create the weapon is 1/25th the base price, or 800 XP. The market price is the base price plus the cost of the cold iron longsword (20,000 gp + 330 gp = 20,330 gp).
When creating a magic weapon, you have the option to have the weapon shed light when drawn. Doing so does not alter the cost to make or buy the weapon. Weapons that shed light do so continually and the light is as bright as a light spell (see page 221 in the Dungeon Master's Guide).
Creating a magic double weapon works just like creating two magic weapons, except that you add the cost of a masterwork weapon only once. For example, a dire flail that has +1 enhancement bonus at each end has a base price of 4,000 gp (2,000 gp for +1 enhancement x 2). The monetary cost to create the weapon is 2,000 gp plus 690 gp for a masterwork dire flail. The experience cost to create the weapon is 1/25th of the base cost (160 XP). The market price 4,690 gp (4,000 gp + 690 gp). A crafter can create a magic double weapon with only one magic end.
What's Next?
So, we've tackled weapons, armor, and shields. Next week, we'll look at what's involved in creating rings.
http://wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/rg/20041228a
Monstrous Conundrums (Part Three)
Once you've built a monster with a few class levels to challenge player characters, you still must rate the challenge. Unfortunately, that task is a little more complicated than it seems at first. Fortunately, the rules provide plenty of material to guide you through the task.
You can find guidelines for matching foes to player characters on pages 37-38 and 48-50 in the Dungeon Master's Guide and pages 293-294 in the Monster Manual.
Challenge Rating (CR)
As noted in Part One, a creature's Challenge Rating is a general measure of how much danger the creature poses during an encounter. A creature's CR indicates the average level that a party of four fresh characters would find moderately difficult to defeat; see page 7 in the Monster Manual for details.
From page 7 of the Monster Manual:
Challenge Rating
This shows the average level of a party of adventurers for which one creature would make an encounter of moderate difficulty. Assume a party of four fresh characters (full hit points, full spells, and equipment appropriate to their levels). Given reasonable luck, the party should be able to win the encounter with some damage but no casualties. For more information about Challenge Ratings, see pages 36 and 48 of the Dungeon Master's Guide.
It's important to remember that CR measures a creature's ability to challenge a party of four characters during a single encounter. A creature's Challenge Rating is no indication of how formidable it could prove as a player character. A monster that PCs meet during an adventure is present for one or two encounters at most. A player character, on the other hand, is present for just about every encounter in the campaign -- that is why the game includes level adjustments. A creature's CR and its character level or ECL can be wildly different, and that's a good thing because CR and character level or ECL measure different things.
CR Adjustments for Class Levels
Usually, it's pretty simple to calculate the CR for a creature with a few class levels -- just add the creature's class levels to its base CR (that is, the CR the creature has when it has no class levels at all). You need to be alert, however, for variations on the basic rule.
Creatures with NPC Class Levels: When a creature has levels in one of the NPC classes presented in Chapter 4 in the Dungeon Master's Guide, subtract one from the class level before adding it to the base CR. A creature's CR, however, always increases by at least +1 when it has an NPC class level.
From page 38 of the Dungeon Master's Guide:
Since NPC classes (see Chapter 5: Campaigns) are weaker than PC classes, levels in an NPC class contribute less to a creature's CR than levels in a PC class. For an NPC with an NPC class, determine her Challenge Rating as if she had a PC class with one less level. For a creature with monster levels in addition to NPC class levels, add the NPC levels -1 to the creature's base CR (always adding at least 1).
Humanoids with No CR or Racial Hit Dice: Humans and other standard races from the Player's Handbook have no Hit Dice or CR except for what they gain from their class levels. Such creatures have a CR equal to their class levels. If the creature has levels from an NPC class, subtract one from the number of NPC levels they have when calculating CR. If the creature has only one NPC class level, it has a CR of 1/2.
See pages 37-38 in the Dungeon Master's Guide for an extended example of this rule in action.
Creatures with Nonassociated Class Levels: Sometimes, adding class levels to a creature doesn't make it more dangerous to foes. When that happens, not all the level are added to the creature's basic CR.
Only levels equal to or less than the creature's racial Hit Dice can be nonassociated. Divide any nonassociated class levels in half before adding to the base CR to get the increased CR for the class levels.
The rules don't say so, but you should round down if the number of levels isn't an even number. If you're adding NPC class levels, subtract one before dividing (and you still round down).
Here's an example of a CR adjustment using nonassociated class levels: A troll has 6 racial Hit Dice and a CR of 5. If a troll has six levels in a nonassociated class from the Player's Handbook, the troll has a CR of 8 (1/2 of 6 is 3 + 5 = 8). If the same troll, however, adds one more level in the same class, the troll's CR is 9.
The rules don't provide much in the way of guidelines for deciding when a class should be nonassociated, so it's always a judgment call for the DM.
In general, a class should be nonassociated when its characteristics don't mesh well with the creature's own abilities. For example, a fire giant is basically a fighting creature. Adding a level in a class that doesn't do much to improve that fighting ability, such as sorcerer or wizard, probably won't make it much more formidable in battle. I say "probably" because it's possible to make just about any class mesh well with a creature's racial prowess.
Suppose a tribe of fire giants includes a sorcerer who knows a collection of workaday spells such as mending, alarm, and locate object. The fire giant sorcerer mostly helps the chief keep the others in line and performs small magical services for the rest of the tribe as needed. The example fire giant probably will rely on its fighting ability in combat and its sorcerer levels won't have much effect in a battle. This creature is a prime candidate for nonassociated class levels.
Now let's suppose we have a particularly clever fire giant sorcerer whose spell list has been carefully tuned for combat. This fire giant knows spells such as shield, true strike, blur, and haste. This fire giant could become a real juggernaut in combat, and all its sorcerer levels should increase its CR.
Encounter Level (EL)
Once you've found the correct CR for all the creatures with class levels in an encounter, you determine the encounter's EL in exactly the same way you'd determine the EL in any other encounter. Table 3-1 in the Dungeon Master's Guide is your primary tool for determining Encounter Levels.
Table 3-1 works well for groups of creatures with the same CR, but doesn't work so well for groups of creatures with varying CRs. Here are a few tips and reminders for dealing with such groups:
* When two creatures have the same CR, the EL for an encounter featuring them is two higher than the shared CR. For example, two CR 9 creatures make an EL 11 encounter. (But be sure to check Table 3-1: Encounter Numbers for those low-CR creatures.)
* When two creatures have CRs within two points of each other, the EL for an encounter featuring them is one higher than the highest CR. For example, a CR 9 and CR 8 creature make an EL 10 encounter. A CR 9 and CR 7 creature also make an EL 10 encounter.
* When two creatures have CRs that differ by three or more, use the higher CR to determine the encounter's EL. For example, a CR 9 and CR 6 creature make an EL 9 encounter.
* When you have a large number of creatures with different CRs, you can determine the EL for an encounter by arranging them into groups of similar CRs and then grouping the results. Here's an example: A group of creatures contains eight monsters of CR 3, three monsters of CR 7, and a leader with CR 10.
According to Table 3-1, eight CR 3 monsters have an EL of 9.
Two CR 7 monsters also have an EL of 9.
Combining the two ELs of 9 produces an EL of 11.
An EL 11 group combined with the CR 10 leader produces an EL of 12 for the whole encounter.
In Conclusion
That wraps up our discussion of various levels. Hopefully you're now more prepared to create monstrous player characters and monsters with class levels as foes for player characters.
http://wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/rg/20060418a
You can find guidelines for matching foes to player characters on pages 37-38 and 48-50 in the Dungeon Master's Guide and pages 293-294 in the Monster Manual.
Challenge Rating (CR)
As noted in Part One, a creature's Challenge Rating is a general measure of how much danger the creature poses during an encounter. A creature's CR indicates the average level that a party of four fresh characters would find moderately difficult to defeat; see page 7 in the Monster Manual for details.
From page 7 of the Monster Manual:
Challenge Rating
This shows the average level of a party of adventurers for which one creature would make an encounter of moderate difficulty. Assume a party of four fresh characters (full hit points, full spells, and equipment appropriate to their levels). Given reasonable luck, the party should be able to win the encounter with some damage but no casualties. For more information about Challenge Ratings, see pages 36 and 48 of the Dungeon Master's Guide.
It's important to remember that CR measures a creature's ability to challenge a party of four characters during a single encounter. A creature's Challenge Rating is no indication of how formidable it could prove as a player character. A monster that PCs meet during an adventure is present for one or two encounters at most. A player character, on the other hand, is present for just about every encounter in the campaign -- that is why the game includes level adjustments. A creature's CR and its character level or ECL can be wildly different, and that's a good thing because CR and character level or ECL measure different things.
CR Adjustments for Class Levels
Usually, it's pretty simple to calculate the CR for a creature with a few class levels -- just add the creature's class levels to its base CR (that is, the CR the creature has when it has no class levels at all). You need to be alert, however, for variations on the basic rule.
Creatures with NPC Class Levels: When a creature has levels in one of the NPC classes presented in Chapter 4 in the Dungeon Master's Guide, subtract one from the class level before adding it to the base CR. A creature's CR, however, always increases by at least +1 when it has an NPC class level.
From page 38 of the Dungeon Master's Guide:
Since NPC classes (see Chapter 5: Campaigns) are weaker than PC classes, levels in an NPC class contribute less to a creature's CR than levels in a PC class. For an NPC with an NPC class, determine her Challenge Rating as if she had a PC class with one less level. For a creature with monster levels in addition to NPC class levels, add the NPC levels -1 to the creature's base CR (always adding at least 1).
Humanoids with No CR or Racial Hit Dice: Humans and other standard races from the Player's Handbook have no Hit Dice or CR except for what they gain from their class levels. Such creatures have a CR equal to their class levels. If the creature has levels from an NPC class, subtract one from the number of NPC levels they have when calculating CR. If the creature has only one NPC class level, it has a CR of 1/2.
See pages 37-38 in the Dungeon Master's Guide for an extended example of this rule in action.
Creatures with Nonassociated Class Levels: Sometimes, adding class levels to a creature doesn't make it more dangerous to foes. When that happens, not all the level are added to the creature's basic CR.
Only levels equal to or less than the creature's racial Hit Dice can be nonassociated. Divide any nonassociated class levels in half before adding to the base CR to get the increased CR for the class levels.
The rules don't say so, but you should round down if the number of levels isn't an even number. If you're adding NPC class levels, subtract one before dividing (and you still round down).
Here's an example of a CR adjustment using nonassociated class levels: A troll has 6 racial Hit Dice and a CR of 5. If a troll has six levels in a nonassociated class from the Player's Handbook, the troll has a CR of 8 (1/2 of 6 is 3 + 5 = 8). If the same troll, however, adds one more level in the same class, the troll's CR is 9.
The rules don't provide much in the way of guidelines for deciding when a class should be nonassociated, so it's always a judgment call for the DM.
In general, a class should be nonassociated when its characteristics don't mesh well with the creature's own abilities. For example, a fire giant is basically a fighting creature. Adding a level in a class that doesn't do much to improve that fighting ability, such as sorcerer or wizard, probably won't make it much more formidable in battle. I say "probably" because it's possible to make just about any class mesh well with a creature's racial prowess.
Suppose a tribe of fire giants includes a sorcerer who knows a collection of workaday spells such as mending, alarm, and locate object. The fire giant sorcerer mostly helps the chief keep the others in line and performs small magical services for the rest of the tribe as needed. The example fire giant probably will rely on its fighting ability in combat and its sorcerer levels won't have much effect in a battle. This creature is a prime candidate for nonassociated class levels.
Now let's suppose we have a particularly clever fire giant sorcerer whose spell list has been carefully tuned for combat. This fire giant knows spells such as shield, true strike, blur, and haste. This fire giant could become a real juggernaut in combat, and all its sorcerer levels should increase its CR.
Encounter Level (EL)
Once you've found the correct CR for all the creatures with class levels in an encounter, you determine the encounter's EL in exactly the same way you'd determine the EL in any other encounter. Table 3-1 in the Dungeon Master's Guide is your primary tool for determining Encounter Levels.
Table 3-1 works well for groups of creatures with the same CR, but doesn't work so well for groups of creatures with varying CRs. Here are a few tips and reminders for dealing with such groups:
* When two creatures have the same CR, the EL for an encounter featuring them is two higher than the shared CR. For example, two CR 9 creatures make an EL 11 encounter. (But be sure to check Table 3-1: Encounter Numbers for those low-CR creatures.)
* When two creatures have CRs within two points of each other, the EL for an encounter featuring them is one higher than the highest CR. For example, a CR 9 and CR 8 creature make an EL 10 encounter. A CR 9 and CR 7 creature also make an EL 10 encounter.
* When two creatures have CRs that differ by three or more, use the higher CR to determine the encounter's EL. For example, a CR 9 and CR 6 creature make an EL 9 encounter.
* When you have a large number of creatures with different CRs, you can determine the EL for an encounter by arranging them into groups of similar CRs and then grouping the results. Here's an example: A group of creatures contains eight monsters of CR 3, three monsters of CR 7, and a leader with CR 10.
According to Table 3-1, eight CR 3 monsters have an EL of 9.
Two CR 7 monsters also have an EL of 9.
Combining the two ELs of 9 produces an EL of 11.
An EL 11 group combined with the CR 10 leader produces an EL of 12 for the whole encounter.
In Conclusion
That wraps up our discussion of various levels. Hopefully you're now more prepared to create monstrous player characters and monsters with class levels as foes for player characters.
http://wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/rg/20060418a
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
Spellwarp Sniper
This column aims to provide players with tips on creating effective and interesting characters of various types. Whether you're a beginning player creating your very first character or an experienced gamer looking to put some punch into an old standby, this column is for you.
Assets
Spellwarp snipers (Complete Scoundrel pg. 64) are excellent ranged combatants and masters of the surgical strike.
* Good Will Saves: A spellwarp sniper uses the best progression for Will saving throws (Table 3-1 in the Player's Handbook). Their arcane spellcasting levels boost this further, making them particularly good at resisting mind-affecting effects.
* Good Class Skills: Spellwarp snipers have many relevant class skills including Concentration, Hide, Move Silently, and Spellcraft. Additionally, they receive four skill points per level, which is a good, but not excellent, amount.
* Spells: Every level of spellwarp sniper provides the character with new spells per day as if the character had gained a level in a spellcasting class he belonged to before becoming a spellwarp sniper.
* Good Class Abilities: At every class level, spellwarp snipers gain a useful special ability. At 1st level, spellwarp allows them to transform spells with an instantaneous duration and a range greater than touch into rays. At 2nd level, sudden raystrike enables them to inflict an extra 1d6 points of damage with rays to foes denied their Dexterity bonus to AC. (At 4th level, this increases to 2d6 points of damage). At 3rd level, they gain Precise Shot as a bonus feat, or another feat which has Point Blank Shot as the prerequisite if they already have Precise Shot. Finally, at 5th level, they attain unparalleled control over their ray spells with ray mastery. Ray mastery doubles the range at which they can inflict extra damage with sudden raystrike, allows them to coup de grace with a ray, and gives them the ability to empower a single ray spell per day as though they had applied the Empower Spell feat to it.
* Easy Qualification: Spellwarp sniper is an easy prestige class for which to qualify. One level of rogue or ninja takes care of the sneak attack or sudden strike criteria. Any ranged combat specialist should consider Point Blank Shot, while by the time the character is 5th level in an arcane spellcasting class, he should have the requisite ranks in Concentration and Spellcraft.
Weaknesses
The spellwarp sniper's advantages come at a price. Here are a few things to consider when designing a spellwarp sniper character.
* Average BAB: Spellwarp snipers advance using the average base attack bonus progression. While their BAB is, therefore, far superior to a wizard's, they still lag behind fighters and other martial combatants. Their high Dexterity and reliance on ranged attacks requiring a ranged touch attack significantly offset this weakness, however.
* Poor Fortitude Saves: Spellwarp snipers have the worst progression for Fortitude saving throws in the game. It is likely that the classes taken to qualify for spellwarp sniper also have poor Fortitude saving throw bonuses, making this their primary weakness.
* Poor Reflex Saves: Spellwarp snipers have the worst progression for Reflex saving throws in the game. Because they have levels in rogue or ninja, however, they already have a good base Reflex save. They also are likely to have good Dexterity scores, further offsetting this disadvantage.
* Loss of Class Abilities: Although advancing as a spellwarp sniper grants additional spellcasting abilities in one arcane spellcasting class, the character does not get any other benefits from that class. Therefore, spellwarp snipers with levels of wizard do not gain bonus wizard feats or additional abilities for their familiars.
Playing a Spellwarp Sniper
People who play efficient spellwarp snipers should keep the following in mind.
Character Build
Spellwarp snipers excel with ray spells. Because of this, from the Player's Handbook, a spellwarp sniper should consider taking Empower Spell (see sidebar), Improved Initiative, Improved Precise Shot, Point Blank Shot, Precise Shot, and Weapon Focus (ray). Other great choices for spellwarp snipers includes Ranged Spell Specialization (Complete Arcane pg. 82 -- ranged spells deal an extra 2 points of damage), Split Ray (Complete Arcane pg. 83 -- enables the user to fire an additional ray with specially prepared ray spells), and Ranged Recall (Complete Mage pg. 46 -- allows the reroll of missed attacks with ranged spells at a -5 penalty).
Finally, taking Great Fortitude offsets to some degree a spellwarp sniper's probably dismal Fortitude saving.
Combat
In battle, spellwarp snipers should stay out of melee, using their spells (particularly their rays and spells modified with their spellwarp ability) to kill or disable individual, powerful opponents. When they run out of spells, they should switch to using ranged weapons, using their sneak attack or sudden strike ability as often as possible. Otherwise, their potential damage output is quite low.
Recommended Spellwarp Sniper Spells
0 -- acid splash, disrupt undead, ray of frost
1st -- burning hands*, color spray*, ray of enfeeblement, true strike
2nd -- cat's grace, scorching ray
3rd -- fireball*, lightning bolt*, empowered ray of enfeeblement, ray of exhaustion
4th -- dimensional anchor, enervation, shout*
5th -- cone of cold*, empowered fireball*, empowered lightning bolt*, waves of fatigue*
6th -- disintegrate, globe of invulnerability, greater heroism
7th -- spell turning, greater teleport
8th -- polar ray, moment of prescience
9th -- energy drain
* Modified with the spellwarp class ability. (The spellwarp class ability enables a spellwarp sniper to alter spells with an instantaneous duration and a range greater than touch into ray spells. Spells that originally required a Reflex save, such as lightning bolt, do not allow such a save when converted to ray form).
Spellwarp snipers probably have low hit points. They should counter this by getting their armor class as high as possible (by buying multiple low-power and cheap magical items bestowing different bonus types). Wise spellwarp snipers also purchase an amulet of health or learn false life to boost their hit points. Gloves of dexterity are also an excellent buy for a spellwarp sniper. If he has Weapon Finesse, the gloves boost his initiative modifier, armor class, Reflex saves, melee and ranged attacks, and numerous important skills including Hide, Move Silently, and Tumble.
Finally, spellwarp snipers must consider what kind of attacks they will likely suffer. Because they mostly stay out of melee, they are likely to be targeted by missile fire and spells. (Taking Deflect Arrows and Snatch Arrows allows a spellwarp sniper some additional, potent options when dealing with enemy missile fire). Because they normally strike from range, spellwarp snipers should use all available cover and concealment to reduce the efficacy of their opponent's attacks.
Assets
Spellwarp snipers (Complete Scoundrel pg. 64) are excellent ranged combatants and masters of the surgical strike.
* Good Will Saves: A spellwarp sniper uses the best progression for Will saving throws (Table 3-1 in the Player's Handbook). Their arcane spellcasting levels boost this further, making them particularly good at resisting mind-affecting effects.
* Good Class Skills: Spellwarp snipers have many relevant class skills including Concentration, Hide, Move Silently, and Spellcraft. Additionally, they receive four skill points per level, which is a good, but not excellent, amount.
* Spells: Every level of spellwarp sniper provides the character with new spells per day as if the character had gained a level in a spellcasting class he belonged to before becoming a spellwarp sniper.
* Good Class Abilities: At every class level, spellwarp snipers gain a useful special ability. At 1st level, spellwarp allows them to transform spells with an instantaneous duration and a range greater than touch into rays. At 2nd level, sudden raystrike enables them to inflict an extra 1d6 points of damage with rays to foes denied their Dexterity bonus to AC. (At 4th level, this increases to 2d6 points of damage). At 3rd level, they gain Precise Shot as a bonus feat, or another feat which has Point Blank Shot as the prerequisite if they already have Precise Shot. Finally, at 5th level, they attain unparalleled control over their ray spells with ray mastery. Ray mastery doubles the range at which they can inflict extra damage with sudden raystrike, allows them to coup de grace with a ray, and gives them the ability to empower a single ray spell per day as though they had applied the Empower Spell feat to it.
* Easy Qualification: Spellwarp sniper is an easy prestige class for which to qualify. One level of rogue or ninja takes care of the sneak attack or sudden strike criteria. Any ranged combat specialist should consider Point Blank Shot, while by the time the character is 5th level in an arcane spellcasting class, he should have the requisite ranks in Concentration and Spellcraft.
Weaknesses
The spellwarp sniper's advantages come at a price. Here are a few things to consider when designing a spellwarp sniper character.
* Average BAB: Spellwarp snipers advance using the average base attack bonus progression. While their BAB is, therefore, far superior to a wizard's, they still lag behind fighters and other martial combatants. Their high Dexterity and reliance on ranged attacks requiring a ranged touch attack significantly offset this weakness, however.
* Poor Fortitude Saves: Spellwarp snipers have the worst progression for Fortitude saving throws in the game. It is likely that the classes taken to qualify for spellwarp sniper also have poor Fortitude saving throw bonuses, making this their primary weakness.
* Poor Reflex Saves: Spellwarp snipers have the worst progression for Reflex saving throws in the game. Because they have levels in rogue or ninja, however, they already have a good base Reflex save. They also are likely to have good Dexterity scores, further offsetting this disadvantage.
* Loss of Class Abilities: Although advancing as a spellwarp sniper grants additional spellcasting abilities in one arcane spellcasting class, the character does not get any other benefits from that class. Therefore, spellwarp snipers with levels of wizard do not gain bonus wizard feats or additional abilities for their familiars.
Playing a Spellwarp Sniper
People who play efficient spellwarp snipers should keep the following in mind.
Character Build
Spellwarp snipers excel with ray spells. Because of this, from the Player's Handbook, a spellwarp sniper should consider taking Empower Spell (see sidebar), Improved Initiative, Improved Precise Shot, Point Blank Shot, Precise Shot, and Weapon Focus (ray). Other great choices for spellwarp snipers includes Ranged Spell Specialization (Complete Arcane pg. 82 -- ranged spells deal an extra 2 points of damage), Split Ray (Complete Arcane pg. 83 -- enables the user to fire an additional ray with specially prepared ray spells), and Ranged Recall (Complete Mage pg. 46 -- allows the reroll of missed attacks with ranged spells at a -5 penalty).
Finally, taking Great Fortitude offsets to some degree a spellwarp sniper's probably dismal Fortitude saving.
Combat
In battle, spellwarp snipers should stay out of melee, using their spells (particularly their rays and spells modified with their spellwarp ability) to kill or disable individual, powerful opponents. When they run out of spells, they should switch to using ranged weapons, using their sneak attack or sudden strike ability as often as possible. Otherwise, their potential damage output is quite low.
Recommended Spellwarp Sniper Spells
0 -- acid splash, disrupt undead, ray of frost
1st -- burning hands*, color spray*, ray of enfeeblement, true strike
2nd -- cat's grace, scorching ray
3rd -- fireball*, lightning bolt*, empowered ray of enfeeblement, ray of exhaustion
4th -- dimensional anchor, enervation, shout*
5th -- cone of cold*, empowered fireball*, empowered lightning bolt*, waves of fatigue*
6th -- disintegrate, globe of invulnerability, greater heroism
7th -- spell turning, greater teleport
8th -- polar ray, moment of prescience
9th -- energy drain
* Modified with the spellwarp class ability. (The spellwarp class ability enables a spellwarp sniper to alter spells with an instantaneous duration and a range greater than touch into ray spells. Spells that originally required a Reflex save, such as lightning bolt, do not allow such a save when converted to ray form).
Spellwarp snipers probably have low hit points. They should counter this by getting their armor class as high as possible (by buying multiple low-power and cheap magical items bestowing different bonus types). Wise spellwarp snipers also purchase an amulet of health or learn false life to boost their hit points. Gloves of dexterity are also an excellent buy for a spellwarp sniper. If he has Weapon Finesse, the gloves boost his initiative modifier, armor class, Reflex saves, melee and ranged attacks, and numerous important skills including Hide, Move Silently, and Tumble.
Finally, spellwarp snipers must consider what kind of attacks they will likely suffer. Because they mostly stay out of melee, they are likely to be targeted by missile fire and spells. (Taking Deflect Arrows and Snatch Arrows allows a spellwarp sniper some additional, potent options when dealing with enemy missile fire). Because they normally strike from range, spellwarp snipers should use all available cover and concealment to reduce the efficacy of their opponent's attacks.
Monday, February 19, 2007
Pig - Dice Game
A fun game you can play with one die.
If you're ever stuck somewhere with no games, but you do have at least one six-sided die, try playing Pig to pass the time.
Players
Best with 2, can work with more. (The downtime between your turns grows longer with each additional player.)
Equipment
1 six-sided die, score sheet, pen or pencil.
Goal
Be the first player to reach 100 points.
Gameplay
On a turn, a player rolls the die repeatedly until either:
* A 1 is rolled
* The player chooses to hold (stop rolling)
If a 1 is rolled, that player's turn ends and no points are earned.
If the player chooses to hold, all of the points rolled during that turn are added to his or her score.
Scoring Examples
Example 1: Sherri rolls a 3 and decides to continue.
She then chooses to roll seven more times (6, 6, 6, 4, 5, 6, 1). Because she rolled a 1, Sherri's turn ends and she earns 0 points.
Example 2: Craig rolls a 6 and decides to continue. He then chooses to roll four more times (3, 4, 2, 6) and decides to hold. Craig earns 21 points for this turn (6+3+4+2+6=21).
Game End
When a player reaches a total of 100 or more points, the game ends and that player is the winner.
Variant
Use 2 six-sided dice. If a player rolls a single 1, the turn ends and no points are scored. However, if a player rolls double 1s, that counts as 25 points.
Other doubles are worth double points, so that a 2-2 is worth 8 points; 3-3 is worth 12; 4-4 is worth 16; 5-5 is worth 20; and 6-6 is worth 24.
If you're ever stuck somewhere with no games, but you do have at least one six-sided die, try playing Pig to pass the time.
Players
Best with 2, can work with more. (The downtime between your turns grows longer with each additional player.)
Equipment
1 six-sided die, score sheet, pen or pencil.
Goal
Be the first player to reach 100 points.
Gameplay
On a turn, a player rolls the die repeatedly until either:
* A 1 is rolled
* The player chooses to hold (stop rolling)
If a 1 is rolled, that player's turn ends and no points are earned.
If the player chooses to hold, all of the points rolled during that turn are added to his or her score.
Scoring Examples
Example 1: Sherri rolls a 3 and decides to continue.
She then chooses to roll seven more times (6, 6, 6, 4, 5, 6, 1). Because she rolled a 1, Sherri's turn ends and she earns 0 points.
Example 2: Craig rolls a 6 and decides to continue. He then chooses to roll four more times (3, 4, 2, 6) and decides to hold. Craig earns 21 points for this turn (6+3+4+2+6=21).
Game End
When a player reaches a total of 100 or more points, the game ends and that player is the winner.
Variant
Use 2 six-sided dice. If a player rolls a single 1, the turn ends and no points are scored. However, if a player rolls double 1s, that counts as 25 points.
Other doubles are worth double points, so that a 2-2 is worth 8 points; 3-3 is worth 12; 4-4 is worth 16; 5-5 is worth 20; and 6-6 is worth 24.
Thursday, February 15, 2007
SAP Rolls 'Game-Changing' Dice After 2006 Stumble
SAP (Quote) today announced that it increased revenue and earnings for 2006, but that margins took a hit for a better cause.
Last year's revenues rose by 10 percent, to 9.4 billion euro ($12.2 billion), versus 8.5 billion euro ($11.1 billion) in 2005. Net income came in at 1.9 billion euro ($2.5 billion), 25 percent higher than the 2005 figure of 1.5 billion euro ($2 billion).
Operating income for 2006 was 2.6 billion euro ($3.4 billion), 10 percent higher than the 2005 figure of 2.3 billion euro ($3 billion), but operating margins fell one-tenth of a percent compared to 2005, from 27.4 percent to 27.3.
Moreover, the company warned investors that margins would continue to suffer in 2007 and 2008, as the company committed itself to spending between $300 million and $400 million over the next eight quarters on a brand-new strategy and platform aimed at mid-market companies.
SAP CEO Henning Kagermann said he expects that by 2010, SAP will be adding 10,000 new customers per year, versus 2,000 per year today, in a market he valued at $16 billion. Kagermann was speaking at an analyst conference this morning.
SAP stock, which closed at $50.02 in New York on Tuesday, fell by almost 5 percent in morning trading, as investors tried to digest the news.
Enterprise software vendors with their eyes on the huge but fragmented small and medium business (SMB) market will also be watching closely. SAP promised to launch the new technology platform and business model aimed at this market segment in March 2007.
"We believe this is a game-changing product... with a lot of breakthrough innovations," said Kagermann. The new product, code-named A1S, can be deployed quickly and easily without the need for consultants and with a variety of ownership and payment options.
Kagermann, calling it "a suite in a box," said that it will offer SMBs more than just customer relationship management (CRM) or ERP (define) functionality, but will span all business processes needed to run a company.
He also said it will "eliminate risk" by allowing customers to run trials before they commit to purchasing or subscribing to the service.
Another key element of A1S, according to Kagermann, is the variety of ways that customers will be able to pay for it. It will be available as a hosted service in 2007 but, beginning in 2008, will also be available in on-premise and hybrid formats for which SAP will provide the financing if needed.
Kagermann said the company's new approach will "bring down the cost of ownership by a factor of 10" because SAP has changed "the entire business model of how software is sold, distributed and maintained."
The flip side for SAP is that it will continue to invest on the infrastructure and delivery model, thus constraining margins in the near term.
But Kagermann expressed confidence that the investment will pay off with margins that are even higher than pervious highs for the company. In fact, he said that the only way for SAP to continue being a growth company is to aggressively enter the SMB market.
SAP is crashing a market already addressed to varying degrees by several competitors, including Oracle (Quote), Salesforce.com (Quote) and Microsoft (Quote).
But Kagermann dismissed comparisons with competitors' efforts in the mid-market as irrelevant. "Microsoft did it with a traditional product and business model. You cannot do 10,000 new customers with mySAP; that's not the point," he said.
Josh Greenbaum, principal analyst with Enterprise Applications Consulting, said that S1A could bring "the real promise of real SOA (define) to mid-market companies."
And Merrill Lynch analyst Raimo Lenschow said in a note this morning that he sees investor confusion about margins as an opportunity to buy more stock.
"Clearly management must be thrilled about its medium- [and] long-term prospects to sacrifice short-term margins to this extent. We agree with the management view."
http://www.internetnews.com/bus-news/article.php/3655821
Last year's revenues rose by 10 percent, to 9.4 billion euro ($12.2 billion), versus 8.5 billion euro ($11.1 billion) in 2005. Net income came in at 1.9 billion euro ($2.5 billion), 25 percent higher than the 2005 figure of 1.5 billion euro ($2 billion).
Operating income for 2006 was 2.6 billion euro ($3.4 billion), 10 percent higher than the 2005 figure of 2.3 billion euro ($3 billion), but operating margins fell one-tenth of a percent compared to 2005, from 27.4 percent to 27.3.
Moreover, the company warned investors that margins would continue to suffer in 2007 and 2008, as the company committed itself to spending between $300 million and $400 million over the next eight quarters on a brand-new strategy and platform aimed at mid-market companies.
SAP CEO Henning Kagermann said he expects that by 2010, SAP will be adding 10,000 new customers per year, versus 2,000 per year today, in a market he valued at $16 billion. Kagermann was speaking at an analyst conference this morning.
SAP stock, which closed at $50.02 in New York on Tuesday, fell by almost 5 percent in morning trading, as investors tried to digest the news.
Enterprise software vendors with their eyes on the huge but fragmented small and medium business (SMB) market will also be watching closely. SAP promised to launch the new technology platform and business model aimed at this market segment in March 2007.
"We believe this is a game-changing product... with a lot of breakthrough innovations," said Kagermann. The new product, code-named A1S, can be deployed quickly and easily without the need for consultants and with a variety of ownership and payment options.
Kagermann, calling it "a suite in a box," said that it will offer SMBs more than just customer relationship management (CRM) or ERP (define) functionality, but will span all business processes needed to run a company.
He also said it will "eliminate risk" by allowing customers to run trials before they commit to purchasing or subscribing to the service.
Another key element of A1S, according to Kagermann, is the variety of ways that customers will be able to pay for it. It will be available as a hosted service in 2007 but, beginning in 2008, will also be available in on-premise and hybrid formats for which SAP will provide the financing if needed.
Kagermann said the company's new approach will "bring down the cost of ownership by a factor of 10" because SAP has changed "the entire business model of how software is sold, distributed and maintained."
The flip side for SAP is that it will continue to invest on the infrastructure and delivery model, thus constraining margins in the near term.
But Kagermann expressed confidence that the investment will pay off with margins that are even higher than pervious highs for the company. In fact, he said that the only way for SAP to continue being a growth company is to aggressively enter the SMB market.
SAP is crashing a market already addressed to varying degrees by several competitors, including Oracle (Quote), Salesforce.com (Quote) and Microsoft (Quote).
But Kagermann dismissed comparisons with competitors' efforts in the mid-market as irrelevant. "Microsoft did it with a traditional product and business model. You cannot do 10,000 new customers with mySAP; that's not the point," he said.
Josh Greenbaum, principal analyst with Enterprise Applications Consulting, said that S1A could bring "the real promise of real SOA (define) to mid-market companies."
And Merrill Lynch analyst Raimo Lenschow said in a note this morning that he sees investor confusion about margins as an opportunity to buy more stock.
"Clearly management must be thrilled about its medium- [and] long-term prospects to sacrifice short-term margins to this extent. We agree with the management view."
http://www.internetnews.com/bus-news/article.php/3655821
Friday, February 9, 2007
Make Learning Multiplication Tables More Fun
One of the challenges of elementary school math, usually around third grade, is learning multiplication tables. For numbers 5 and smaller, it's relatively easy for most children to just add to the last result as they learn their multiplication tables. The adding trick in reciting multiplication tables gets a bit more challenging when the child reaches the multiplication tables for 6, 7, 8 and 9. Then, even when he or she can recite the multiplication tables in order, can the child really answer the question, "what's seven times eight?" quickly. Success in being able to multiply quickly becomes critical in the later grades when the child is multiplying three and four digit numbers, and then learning division and using the same knowledge and processes in reverse. So what you can you do speed up your child's multiplication skills and reinforce their knowledge of the multiplication tables?
One idea I used with my own child was to find a set of twelve-side dice (or make your own with four regular dice, by just adding extra dots to two of them and rolling one 12-dot set at a time). We would play competitively, rolling one twelve-side die, and then the other, and giving the product of the two numbers rolled as quickly as possible. His goal was to become quick enough to beat me to the answer. Other times, he played a solo version with a timer in that he had to be able to do a certain number of throws and answer them all within a minute while I kept track of his answers.
For parents who don't have the time, there are several software programs for children which effectively incorporate the same types of multiplication games to speed up a child's computation skills. If you want to ensure that your child has the math skills and speed to do well later on in algebra and more advanced math, add games which reinforce math skills in a fun way to your curriculum. This is especially important for children who are not big fans of math textbooks. Make at least one day of math learning per week a day to let your child experience math as fun and not as tedious problems that need to be solved.
One idea I used with my own child was to find a set of twelve-side dice (or make your own with four regular dice, by just adding extra dots to two of them and rolling one 12-dot set at a time). We would play competitively, rolling one twelve-side die, and then the other, and giving the product of the two numbers rolled as quickly as possible. His goal was to become quick enough to beat me to the answer. Other times, he played a solo version with a timer in that he had to be able to do a certain number of throws and answer them all within a minute while I kept track of his answers.
For parents who don't have the time, there are several software programs for children which effectively incorporate the same types of multiplication games to speed up a child's computation skills. If you want to ensure that your child has the math skills and speed to do well later on in algebra and more advanced math, add games which reinforce math skills in a fun way to your curriculum. This is especially important for children who are not big fans of math textbooks. Make at least one day of math learning per week a day to let your child experience math as fun and not as tedious problems that need to be solved.
The Basics of Backgammon Strategies
The objective of a Backgammon game is to move your pieces around the game board and bear them off the board faster than your opponent who works harder to do the same but in the opposite direction. Winning a game in Backgammon requires both strategy and luck. How far you can move your pieces is up to the numbers from rolling the dices, and how you move your pieces are determined by your over playing strategies. Four basic strategies commonly used in standard Western backgammon are 1) the running game strategy, 2) the blocking game strategy, 3) the priming game strategy, and 4) the back game strategy. Players use different strategies in the different stages of a game dependent on your positions and opponent’s.
The Running Game Strategy
The goal of the Running Game strategy is to bring all your pieces into your inner board and bear them off as fast as you could. This strategy focuses on the speed of moving your pieces with no efforts to hit or block your opponent’s pieces. The best scenario to use this strategy is when you think you can move your own pieces fast than the opponent does: when 1) you have a fewer pieces on the board; 2) all your pieces have past opponent’s pieces; or 3) the opponent doesn’t use the hitting or blocking strategy.
The Blocking Game Strategy
The primary goal of the blocking strategy, by the name, is to block the opponent’s pieces, temporarily not to worry moving your pieces quickly. Once you’ve established the blockage for the opponent’s movement with a few pieces, you can move your other pieces quickly off the board. The player should also have a clear plan when to withdraw and move the pieces that used for blocking. The game gets interesting when the opponent uses the same blocking strategy.
The Priming Game Strategy
If the purpose of the blocking strategy is to slow down the opponent to move his pieces, the Priming Game strategy is to completely block any movement of the opponent by building a prime – ideally 6 points in a row. The opponent’s pieces will either get hit, or result a damaged position if he ever tries escape the wall. The trap of the prime can be established anywhere between point 2 and point 11 in your board. Once you’ve successfully constructed the prime to block the movement of the opponent, the opponent doesn't even get to roll the dice, and you move your pieces and roll the dice again. You’ll win the game for sure.
The Back Game Strategy
The objectives of the Back Game strategy and the Blocking Game strategy are similar - to hinder your opponent’s positions in hope to improve your chances of winning, but the Back Game strategy uses different tactics to do that. The Back Game strategy is often used when you’re far behind your opponent. To play Backgammon with this strategy, you need to control two or more points in table, and to hit a blot late in the game. This strategy is more difficult than others to play in backgammon because it requires careful movement of your pieces and how the pieces are moved is partly the result of the dice roll.
The Running Game Strategy
The goal of the Running Game strategy is to bring all your pieces into your inner board and bear them off as fast as you could. This strategy focuses on the speed of moving your pieces with no efforts to hit or block your opponent’s pieces. The best scenario to use this strategy is when you think you can move your own pieces fast than the opponent does: when 1) you have a fewer pieces on the board; 2) all your pieces have past opponent’s pieces; or 3) the opponent doesn’t use the hitting or blocking strategy.
The Blocking Game Strategy
The primary goal of the blocking strategy, by the name, is to block the opponent’s pieces, temporarily not to worry moving your pieces quickly. Once you’ve established the blockage for the opponent’s movement with a few pieces, you can move your other pieces quickly off the board. The player should also have a clear plan when to withdraw and move the pieces that used for blocking. The game gets interesting when the opponent uses the same blocking strategy.
The Priming Game Strategy
If the purpose of the blocking strategy is to slow down the opponent to move his pieces, the Priming Game strategy is to completely block any movement of the opponent by building a prime – ideally 6 points in a row. The opponent’s pieces will either get hit, or result a damaged position if he ever tries escape the wall. The trap of the prime can be established anywhere between point 2 and point 11 in your board. Once you’ve successfully constructed the prime to block the movement of the opponent, the opponent doesn't even get to roll the dice, and you move your pieces and roll the dice again. You’ll win the game for sure.
The Back Game Strategy
The objectives of the Back Game strategy and the Blocking Game strategy are similar - to hinder your opponent’s positions in hope to improve your chances of winning, but the Back Game strategy uses different tactics to do that. The Back Game strategy is often used when you’re far behind your opponent. To play Backgammon with this strategy, you need to control two or more points in table, and to hit a blot late in the game. This strategy is more difficult than others to play in backgammon because it requires careful movement of your pieces and how the pieces are moved is partly the result of the dice roll.
Online Craps – The Best Odds For a Game Of Chance To Win
Online Craps can be entertaining and if you bet correctly you will lower the casino’s odds, and increase your own chance of winning and you will have the best odds in a game of chance.
In fact, the odds are better than roulette baccarat or slots and its a simple game to play as well making it suitable for novice players.
Lets look at why playing craps online is such a great game in terms of fun and odds of success.
When playing Online Craps, the only thing you can really do is to bet correctly, and this alone will reduce the casino’s odds.
As each throw of the dice is unique, and not dependent on whatever has been thrown before, you cannot with any system predict how the dice will fall.
The secret to winning at Online craps is simply to play the bet with the best odds The best way to win is understand the passline bet, and how the odds apply.
In Online Craps there are more than 40 different bets you can make, but most of them favor the casino and can be ignored
Betting Odds Secrets
There is a bet called the craps “odds” bet. Here there are only minimal casino favorable odds. This bet is not drawn on the table, but is a poorly kept secret. Here is how it’s done/
A passline bet must first be made. A passline bet is a first bet that can be made before a new shooter starts his roll of the dice. The first roll is made, and then you can place the “odds” bet directly behind your passline bet. What happens then?
If the shooter makes his point, you are paid 1 to 1 for your passline bet but you are also paid the real odds for your odds bet.
Should the point be a 4 or a 10 your win is paid 2 to 1. (as 4 and 10 are easy rolls)
Should the point be a 5 or a 9 your win is paid 3 to 2. (harder to achieve than a 4 or 10)
Should the point be a 6 or an 8 your win is paid 6 to 5. (hardest rolls to achieve statistically)
Some casinos when playing Online Craps will allow you to take double odds bet on your passline bet. For example if you put $30 on the passline, you would be able to place an odds bet of $60.
Statistically, the in the passline bet the casino’s odds are 1.41% in their favor. But if you place an odds bet as well, you have just brought down the odds to about even.
The good news is that a passline bet with single odds gives the casino odds of only 0.85% but with double odds bet that edge is further to just 0.61%. This is almost even odds.
Since the casino is looking for more ways to get your money on the betting lines, they will sometimes
allow multiple bets in Online Craps with an odds bet, depending on the point in question
Should the point be 4 or 10 you can bet 3 times odds
Should the point be 5 or 9 you can bet 4 times odds.
Should the point be a 6 or an 8 you can bet 5 times odds.
Two tips to remember when playing Online Crap are:
• that you should always bet odds and their multiples if given the chance.
• If you are a “right” bettor (betting with the roller) bet on pass and come with full odds on both If you are a “wrong” (betting with the casino) bettor bet on don’t pass and don’t come with full odds on both. Online Craps can be really fun, and you can make some money by following the advice above. All the other bets are heavily tilted in the casino’s favor. So play Online Craps with an eye to win, your strategy in hand.
Craps is simple fun and the odds are the best you will get in a game of chance so try playing craps online today!
In fact, the odds are better than roulette baccarat or slots and its a simple game to play as well making it suitable for novice players.
Lets look at why playing craps online is such a great game in terms of fun and odds of success.
When playing Online Craps, the only thing you can really do is to bet correctly, and this alone will reduce the casino’s odds.
As each throw of the dice is unique, and not dependent on whatever has been thrown before, you cannot with any system predict how the dice will fall.
The secret to winning at Online craps is simply to play the bet with the best odds The best way to win is understand the passline bet, and how the odds apply.
In Online Craps there are more than 40 different bets you can make, but most of them favor the casino and can be ignored
Betting Odds Secrets
There is a bet called the craps “odds” bet. Here there are only minimal casino favorable odds. This bet is not drawn on the table, but is a poorly kept secret. Here is how it’s done/
A passline bet must first be made. A passline bet is a first bet that can be made before a new shooter starts his roll of the dice. The first roll is made, and then you can place the “odds” bet directly behind your passline bet. What happens then?
If the shooter makes his point, you are paid 1 to 1 for your passline bet but you are also paid the real odds for your odds bet.
Should the point be a 4 or a 10 your win is paid 2 to 1. (as 4 and 10 are easy rolls)
Should the point be a 5 or a 9 your win is paid 3 to 2. (harder to achieve than a 4 or 10)
Should the point be a 6 or an 8 your win is paid 6 to 5. (hardest rolls to achieve statistically)
Some casinos when playing Online Craps will allow you to take double odds bet on your passline bet. For example if you put $30 on the passline, you would be able to place an odds bet of $60.
Statistically, the in the passline bet the casino’s odds are 1.41% in their favor. But if you place an odds bet as well, you have just brought down the odds to about even.
The good news is that a passline bet with single odds gives the casino odds of only 0.85% but with double odds bet that edge is further to just 0.61%. This is almost even odds.
Since the casino is looking for more ways to get your money on the betting lines, they will sometimes
allow multiple bets in Online Craps with an odds bet, depending on the point in question
Should the point be 4 or 10 you can bet 3 times odds
Should the point be 5 or 9 you can bet 4 times odds.
Should the point be a 6 or an 8 you can bet 5 times odds.
Two tips to remember when playing Online Crap are:
• that you should always bet odds and their multiples if given the chance.
• If you are a “right” bettor (betting with the roller) bet on pass and come with full odds on both If you are a “wrong” (betting with the casino) bettor bet on don’t pass and don’t come with full odds on both. Online Craps can be really fun, and you can make some money by following the advice above. All the other bets are heavily tilted in the casino’s favor. So play Online Craps with an eye to win, your strategy in hand.
Craps is simple fun and the odds are the best you will get in a game of chance so try playing craps online today!
How To Master The Techniques Of Backgammon
Backgammon has been a popular game for many years. It is a game similar to checkers, however your strategy is the complete opposite. Backgammon instructions are easy to follow and anyone can play Backgammon. When you purchase a backgammon game, there are usually always backgammon instructions that come along to walk you through.
The main goal of the game backgammon is for each of the players to get all of his or her game pieces onto the home board and then to find a way to get all the pieces off the Backgammon board. The first player to achieve this is the winner of the game.
To start the backgammon game, figure out who will go first. You can roll the die for this and whoever gets the bigger number goes first. This is just the easiest way to determine who goes first, without any conflict.
Each player will get a turn to move his or her pieces. The players will first roll the dice before every move. You will move with whatever consists with the roll of the dice. If you roll a 4 and 3, then you will move seven slots. You can break the moves up between two game pieces. In other words, move one four spaces and the other piece three. You just have to make sure you move one game piece in accordance with the number on one of the die rolled. And the other piece in accordance with the other number rolled. The game of backgammon really easy to learn.
If the same number would appear on both dice rolled, then the roller would be allowed double what the number is. For example, if you roll a 2-2, then the roller is allowed four moves instead of two. There are instructions in the game to remind of the hard plays and so you can refer back to when you need to.
You get a point by getting two or more of your game pieces on it. Once this occurs, the opponent cannot come to rest on that point when taking the combination of his dice.
There are different terms and circumstances that must be followed during the course of the game. When you are stuck on what to do, you can go back and look in the instructions to the game to figure it out, has tips and instructions. If you are playing for the first time and your opponent is a pro, then they can help you along and give you pointers throughout the game.
The main goal of the game backgammon is for each of the players to get all of his or her game pieces onto the home board and then to find a way to get all the pieces off the Backgammon board. The first player to achieve this is the winner of the game.
To start the backgammon game, figure out who will go first. You can roll the die for this and whoever gets the bigger number goes first. This is just the easiest way to determine who goes first, without any conflict.
Each player will get a turn to move his or her pieces. The players will first roll the dice before every move. You will move with whatever consists with the roll of the dice. If you roll a 4 and 3, then you will move seven slots. You can break the moves up between two game pieces. In other words, move one four spaces and the other piece three. You just have to make sure you move one game piece in accordance with the number on one of the die rolled. And the other piece in accordance with the other number rolled. The game of backgammon really easy to learn.
If the same number would appear on both dice rolled, then the roller would be allowed double what the number is. For example, if you roll a 2-2, then the roller is allowed four moves instead of two. There are instructions in the game to remind of the hard plays and so you can refer back to when you need to.
You get a point by getting two or more of your game pieces on it. Once this occurs, the opponent cannot come to rest on that point when taking the combination of his dice.
There are different terms and circumstances that must be followed during the course of the game. When you are stuck on what to do, you can go back and look in the instructions to the game to figure it out, has tips and instructions. If you are playing for the first time and your opponent is a pro, then they can help you along and give you pointers throughout the game.
Best Bet for Poker Chip Sets
Are you an insatiable poker player seeking a new set of chips? These chips are not only used for playing card games, they can be on the roulette and blackjack tables at casinos. There are many different varieties of poker chip sets, so make sure you get a set that is right for you.
Most of the poker chips are made from plastic but there are also poker chip sets that are made from clay and wood. Apart from these types, poker chips can be composite or even ceramic. Most people have composite sets at home. They are made from high quality resin and some metal, so that the chips weigh according to the regulations.
Poker chips come in different colours and designs. They can be two-toned or three-coloured. Apart from that there are three ordinary styles - the "dice" style, the “suits" style and the "diamonds" style. The first type, the dice poker chip sets features the face of each side of the dice around the outside edge of the poker chip. The third type, the diamonds poker chips have diamonds around the chip's outside edges.
If you are a collector or need a new hobby, then why not start collecting poker chip sets? Poker chips depict such items as motorcycles and cars. Not to forget that there are also poker chip sets which feature your favourite team's logo. There are many varieties of poker chip sets, you just have to chose the one you like the best.
When buying a poker chip set you should think about how many people you like playing poker with and buy as many chips as you night need. If you play with a few friends, then a 300-poker chip set will be enough. In case you are 8-10 players, then it is best if you purchase a 700-poker chip set.
If you are wondering where you can buy poker chips from, the answer is any fine gaming store and from trusted dealers on the internet. If you ready to pay some extra money for the set, then you might visit some sites which allow you to custom create your poker chips.
It doesn't matter what type of poker chip sets you are searching for, there is a great variety of them to choose. Don't purchase the first one you come across. Take your time and find the poker chip set that will be right for you, one that will suit you best. In case you have the money for a custom set, then be ready to face up to the envy of all your friends that you play poker with.
Most of the poker chips are made from plastic but there are also poker chip sets that are made from clay and wood. Apart from these types, poker chips can be composite or even ceramic. Most people have composite sets at home. They are made from high quality resin and some metal, so that the chips weigh according to the regulations.
Poker chips come in different colours and designs. They can be two-toned or three-coloured. Apart from that there are three ordinary styles - the "dice" style, the “suits" style and the "diamonds" style. The first type, the dice poker chip sets features the face of each side of the dice around the outside edge of the poker chip. The third type, the diamonds poker chips have diamonds around the chip's outside edges.
If you are a collector or need a new hobby, then why not start collecting poker chip sets? Poker chips depict such items as motorcycles and cars. Not to forget that there are also poker chip sets which feature your favourite team's logo. There are many varieties of poker chip sets, you just have to chose the one you like the best.
When buying a poker chip set you should think about how many people you like playing poker with and buy as many chips as you night need. If you play with a few friends, then a 300-poker chip set will be enough. In case you are 8-10 players, then it is best if you purchase a 700-poker chip set.
If you are wondering where you can buy poker chips from, the answer is any fine gaming store and from trusted dealers on the internet. If you ready to pay some extra money for the set, then you might visit some sites which allow you to custom create your poker chips.
It doesn't matter what type of poker chip sets you are searching for, there is a great variety of them to choose. Don't purchase the first one you come across. Take your time and find the poker chip set that will be right for you, one that will suit you best. In case you have the money for a custom set, then be ready to face up to the envy of all your friends that you play poker with.
Games - Dungeons and Dragons
In the world of cult games, probably none captured the imaginations of kids more than Dungeons & Dragons. This was a game that was so unique that the rules of the game were that there were really no rules. How you played was limited only by your imagination.
The game was actually influence by the great book "Lord Of The Rings". The gentlemen who created Dungeons & Dragons, Gary Gygax and Dave Arneson, were such Rings freaks that they turned their love of the book into what became one of the most popular role playing games of all time. This vision first took form in 1973.
This game was not like your traditional board game. The fact is, it didn't have a board at all. The original Dungeons & Dragons game came with a map. The players would follow the map to see where it would take them and ultimately uncover the rewards and dangers that lay in store for them.
There were no real rules to the game. Each game that was played could have as many players as you wanted. Each player would take on the role of a different character, which was also made up based on various races. The common races were humans, elves, dwarfs, orcs and a number of others. Each race then had various professions or specialties. For example. You may decide to play a human character who was a fighter. Maybe you preferred to play an elf who was a cleric, someone who healed other characters. The common professions aside from fighters and clerics were wizards, mages, paladins and thieves. Each profession had a different skill. Mages and wizards were very adept in casting magic spells that could be quite powerful in a battle against the enemy. Clerics had great healing powers. Thieves had the ability to pick locks and disarm traps.
In putting together a party to go out adventuring, it was a good idea to put together one that had a number of different skills. A common 6 member party consisted of 2 fighters, 1 cleric, 1 wizard, 1 thief and 1 paladin. This party was diverse enough to handle anything that it happened to run into.
And what exactly did these parties run into? Anything and everything. There were monsters of all kinds in the game of Dungeons & Dragons, from goblins to skeletons to the all dreaded dragon itself. Each monster had its own powers and abilities. Some monsters were easy to defeat and others were quite hard.
The excitement of the game was in creating a character and watching your character gain skill levels. Characters start at the lowest levels and work their way up to the highest levels possible. This could literally take months or even years of play.
Each character itself is made up of various abilities such as dexterity, strength, intelligence and a number of others. The scores for these abilities are randomly generated by dice, which are the whole engine of a Dungeons & Dragons game. The common dice used are 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 20 and 100 sided. These dice are also used to determine the outcome of battles and the ability to disarm traps. They even determine what treasures may or may not be found. And the amazing thing about all this is that there is no board, no pieces, nothing but paper and pencil and the dice. It is just about the cheapest game to play while being the most fascinating.
If you have never experienced the fantasy world of Dungeons & Dragons, you owe it to yourself to get yourself a party and go exploring.
The game was actually influence by the great book "Lord Of The Rings". The gentlemen who created Dungeons & Dragons, Gary Gygax and Dave Arneson, were such Rings freaks that they turned their love of the book into what became one of the most popular role playing games of all time. This vision first took form in 1973.
This game was not like your traditional board game. The fact is, it didn't have a board at all. The original Dungeons & Dragons game came with a map. The players would follow the map to see where it would take them and ultimately uncover the rewards and dangers that lay in store for them.
There were no real rules to the game. Each game that was played could have as many players as you wanted. Each player would take on the role of a different character, which was also made up based on various races. The common races were humans, elves, dwarfs, orcs and a number of others. Each race then had various professions or specialties. For example. You may decide to play a human character who was a fighter. Maybe you preferred to play an elf who was a cleric, someone who healed other characters. The common professions aside from fighters and clerics were wizards, mages, paladins and thieves. Each profession had a different skill. Mages and wizards were very adept in casting magic spells that could be quite powerful in a battle against the enemy. Clerics had great healing powers. Thieves had the ability to pick locks and disarm traps.
In putting together a party to go out adventuring, it was a good idea to put together one that had a number of different skills. A common 6 member party consisted of 2 fighters, 1 cleric, 1 wizard, 1 thief and 1 paladin. This party was diverse enough to handle anything that it happened to run into.
And what exactly did these parties run into? Anything and everything. There were monsters of all kinds in the game of Dungeons & Dragons, from goblins to skeletons to the all dreaded dragon itself. Each monster had its own powers and abilities. Some monsters were easy to defeat and others were quite hard.
The excitement of the game was in creating a character and watching your character gain skill levels. Characters start at the lowest levels and work their way up to the highest levels possible. This could literally take months or even years of play.
Each character itself is made up of various abilities such as dexterity, strength, intelligence and a number of others. The scores for these abilities are randomly generated by dice, which are the whole engine of a Dungeons & Dragons game. The common dice used are 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 20 and 100 sided. These dice are also used to determine the outcome of battles and the ability to disarm traps. They even determine what treasures may or may not be found. And the amazing thing about all this is that there is no board, no pieces, nothing but paper and pencil and the dice. It is just about the cheapest game to play while being the most fascinating.
If you have never experienced the fantasy world of Dungeons & Dragons, you owe it to yourself to get yourself a party and go exploring.
Know The Pieces In Your Backgammon Set
When you are shopping for a backgammon set, it is important to know what to look for. No two backgammon sets are the same, unless they are made that way purposely, such as by the same manufacturer. Some are fancy and some are plain. Some are cheaper than others and some can be really expensive. It all depends on what you are looking for.
What is great about a backgammon set is that the board doubles as a case to carry the different pieces. The board itself can be made of several different types of materials such as magnetic, vinyl, plastic, leather, aluminum, and wood. Some backgammon sets come included in certain pieces of furniture such as an ottoman or end table. Other sets are very small with magnetic pieces for travel. With backgammon, there is something to suit every taste and a set for everyone.
Because backgammon sets vary so greatly in sizes, shapes, and materials, you can expect to pay between twenty and one-thousand dollars for a set, it all depends on how fancy or plain you want to get. Within the backgammon set itself, you will find a variety of different pieces. Again, these pieces can be made of a variety of different materials such as wood or plastic. Depending you your budget, you can buy sets that are made from the finest materials. If you are really hooked on the game, having a nice expensive set can help add to the experience of playing.
Each backgammon set comes with thirty backgammon chips. Fifteen white and fifteen black chips. Of course, this could vary as well, depending on the manufacturer; they can be of different colors such as two different shades of brown. The chips are typically made from a heavy type of plastic that feels rather nice to the touch and makes handling the pieces fun, but they can also be made from wood and other materials. Typically, most backgammon sets come with two shakers as well, one for each player. They may be of the same color or of two different colors. They too may be made out of different materials, such as wood, plastic, or even leather.
Dice are also standard with a backgammon set. This could mean two dice, which the players would have to share, or four, in which each player would have their own set. Another standard in a backgammon set is the doubling cube. The doubling cube is a six sided dice, which has the numbers 2, 4, 18, 16, 32, and 64. However, most people playing for fun avoid using the doubling cube. The doubling cube generally only comes into play when money is at stake.
So there you have it. Now you have a good idea of what pieces are involved in a backgammon set.
What is great about a backgammon set is that the board doubles as a case to carry the different pieces. The board itself can be made of several different types of materials such as magnetic, vinyl, plastic, leather, aluminum, and wood. Some backgammon sets come included in certain pieces of furniture such as an ottoman or end table. Other sets are very small with magnetic pieces for travel. With backgammon, there is something to suit every taste and a set for everyone.
Because backgammon sets vary so greatly in sizes, shapes, and materials, you can expect to pay between twenty and one-thousand dollars for a set, it all depends on how fancy or plain you want to get. Within the backgammon set itself, you will find a variety of different pieces. Again, these pieces can be made of a variety of different materials such as wood or plastic. Depending you your budget, you can buy sets that are made from the finest materials. If you are really hooked on the game, having a nice expensive set can help add to the experience of playing.
Each backgammon set comes with thirty backgammon chips. Fifteen white and fifteen black chips. Of course, this could vary as well, depending on the manufacturer; they can be of different colors such as two different shades of brown. The chips are typically made from a heavy type of plastic that feels rather nice to the touch and makes handling the pieces fun, but they can also be made from wood and other materials. Typically, most backgammon sets come with two shakers as well, one for each player. They may be of the same color or of two different colors. They too may be made out of different materials, such as wood, plastic, or even leather.
Dice are also standard with a backgammon set. This could mean two dice, which the players would have to share, or four, in which each player would have their own set. Another standard in a backgammon set is the doubling cube. The doubling cube is a six sided dice, which has the numbers 2, 4, 18, 16, 32, and 64. However, most people playing for fun avoid using the doubling cube. The doubling cube generally only comes into play when money is at stake.
So there you have it. Now you have a good idea of what pieces are involved in a backgammon set.
School Fundraising Idea - Wheel of Misfortune
Many fundraising ideas involve the enjoyment people have in the misfortune of others, as long as it is safe and no one gets hurt. This is especially true if the person suffering the misfortune is someone like your principal, coach or teacher. That’s why dunk tanks, head shaving and pie in the face remain popular fundraisers.
This school fundraising idea builds on that concept, adding to it the idea behind a popular TV show. Here’s how it works:
Make a big wheel like the one used on a popular TV show that is divided in sections, spins on an axle and has flexible plastic dividers separating each section. If making a wheel like this is difficult in your circumstances, a large pair of dice made from foam or cardboard will work just as well. A different misfortune is written on each section of the wheel or each side of the dice. The examples used earlier could work, such as, head shaving, pie in the face, or getting doused with water. Other ideas are getting wrapped in toilet paper, covered with shaving cream, covered in slime, or eating something disgusting.
Celebrity participants agree to do or submit to, whatever misfortune turns up on the wheel or the dice. Your principal, coach or teachers are likely prospects. Other prospects may be the student council, team captains or other school officials. Parents may also participate. Depending on your location, other celebrities might include prominent business people, town council, mayor or police chief.
The celebrity participants should only agree to do what is on the wheel if a minimum amount of money is pledged. People can pledge towards each misfortune. The more popular misfortune will raise more money. When the participant celebrity spins the wheel or throws the dice and then does the misfortune they spin or roll, the people who have pledged towards that misfortune must pay up. If you are concerned about collecting pledge payments, you may want to collect the money in advance, and have someone trustworthy hold the funds, to be turned over to the school when the task is completed.
The fundraising event at which the wheel is spun and participants get sprayed, dunked, pied or whatever, should be organized so that there is a minimum of mess to clean up. You may have more options if the event is held outdoors, but indoors can be done with some planning and care. Make sure you work with school maintenance staff and get their ok before you start throwing water or pies around.
The fundraising idea should be organized and promoted like any other event. Organize volunteers to do specific jobs, publicize the event in school newspapers, local papers, and other media. Decide on what misfortunes and which celebrities will participate before you publicize the event. This will increase the amount of the pledges and funds raised.
This is a school fundraising idea that is unique, low cost and has the potential to raise a lot of money and be a lot of fun.
This school fundraising idea builds on that concept, adding to it the idea behind a popular TV show. Here’s how it works:
Make a big wheel like the one used on a popular TV show that is divided in sections, spins on an axle and has flexible plastic dividers separating each section. If making a wheel like this is difficult in your circumstances, a large pair of dice made from foam or cardboard will work just as well. A different misfortune is written on each section of the wheel or each side of the dice. The examples used earlier could work, such as, head shaving, pie in the face, or getting doused with water. Other ideas are getting wrapped in toilet paper, covered with shaving cream, covered in slime, or eating something disgusting.
Celebrity participants agree to do or submit to, whatever misfortune turns up on the wheel or the dice. Your principal, coach or teachers are likely prospects. Other prospects may be the student council, team captains or other school officials. Parents may also participate. Depending on your location, other celebrities might include prominent business people, town council, mayor or police chief.
The celebrity participants should only agree to do what is on the wheel if a minimum amount of money is pledged. People can pledge towards each misfortune. The more popular misfortune will raise more money. When the participant celebrity spins the wheel or throws the dice and then does the misfortune they spin or roll, the people who have pledged towards that misfortune must pay up. If you are concerned about collecting pledge payments, you may want to collect the money in advance, and have someone trustworthy hold the funds, to be turned over to the school when the task is completed.
The fundraising event at which the wheel is spun and participants get sprayed, dunked, pied or whatever, should be organized so that there is a minimum of mess to clean up. You may have more options if the event is held outdoors, but indoors can be done with some planning and care. Make sure you work with school maintenance staff and get their ok before you start throwing water or pies around.
The fundraising idea should be organized and promoted like any other event. Organize volunteers to do specific jobs, publicize the event in school newspapers, local papers, and other media. Decide on what misfortunes and which celebrities will participate before you publicize the event. This will increase the amount of the pledges and funds raised.
This is a school fundraising idea that is unique, low cost and has the potential to raise a lot of money and be a lot of fun.
Playing the Different Variants of Backgammon
If you are a frequent player of backgammon, the different variants of the game should not be unfamiliar to you. There are a few backgammon variants but only the roll-over is commonly used. The roll-over is actually a variant that was introduced by Richard Frey in 1960s.
The roll-over is used often because it adds strategy, reduces the element of luck and reduce frustration. It also provides additional interest and excitement to the game. However, it should be limited to one for each player each game and must be agreed upon by all players or the tournament director before it is adopted in a session. Apart from the roll-over, there are other variants such as chouette, opening roll and the beaver. They are explained in greater detail in this article.
Roll-Over Once during the game, each player can decide either to roll again or to have his opponent roll again. A player must decide to roll again before he picks up his dice; that is, before he completes his turn. A player can wait until his opponent completes his turn (seeing how he moves) before deciding to have the opponent roll again. The opponent cannot double before rolling again; he must wait until the next turn to double. Each player starts each game with a roll-over marker and removes it from the board when he exercises his roll-over option.
Chouette In a chouette, one person plays against two or more people. A chouette can be interesting and sociable. If there are four or more players, a mini-contest can be conducted in which the players paired up to play one against one in each round instead of playing a chouette. If a chouette is appropriate, one person, who is in the box, plays against the other two. One person of the two-player team is the captain. The players of the two-player team jointly decide their moves and roll-over usage. If they cannot agree, the captain makes the decision.
The best way to play a chouette is to play a three-set match where the players rotate each set. Each player is the individual player(in the box), the captain, and the teammate for one set. Each player of the two-player team receives the points that they win in the set. The player that wins the most points in the three sets is the winner of the match.
Opening Roll In this variant, the opening roll, where each player rolls one of his dice, merely determines which player starts first. The player that wins the opening roll then rolls both of his dice to make his first move. In some uses of this variant, the player that wins the first turn can choose to play that roll or roll both of his dice. This allows the possibility of doubles for the first moves of the games and gives the player that wins the added advantage.
Beaver For this variant, the player that is doubled can accept, redouble and retain possession of the cube, if he does so before the doubling player rolls. The beaver doesn't make sense for players who know the proper double strategy because a player should normally have more than a 70% chance of winning the game to double. The doubled player would be crazy to redouble with less than a 30% chance of winning the game.
The roll-over is used often because it adds strategy, reduces the element of luck and reduce frustration. It also provides additional interest and excitement to the game. However, it should be limited to one for each player each game and must be agreed upon by all players or the tournament director before it is adopted in a session. Apart from the roll-over, there are other variants such as chouette, opening roll and the beaver. They are explained in greater detail in this article.
Roll-Over Once during the game, each player can decide either to roll again or to have his opponent roll again. A player must decide to roll again before he picks up his dice; that is, before he completes his turn. A player can wait until his opponent completes his turn (seeing how he moves) before deciding to have the opponent roll again. The opponent cannot double before rolling again; he must wait until the next turn to double. Each player starts each game with a roll-over marker and removes it from the board when he exercises his roll-over option.
Chouette In a chouette, one person plays against two or more people. A chouette can be interesting and sociable. If there are four or more players, a mini-contest can be conducted in which the players paired up to play one against one in each round instead of playing a chouette. If a chouette is appropriate, one person, who is in the box, plays against the other two. One person of the two-player team is the captain. The players of the two-player team jointly decide their moves and roll-over usage. If they cannot agree, the captain makes the decision.
The best way to play a chouette is to play a three-set match where the players rotate each set. Each player is the individual player(in the box), the captain, and the teammate for one set. Each player of the two-player team receives the points that they win in the set. The player that wins the most points in the three sets is the winner of the match.
Opening Roll In this variant, the opening roll, where each player rolls one of his dice, merely determines which player starts first. The player that wins the opening roll then rolls both of his dice to make his first move. In some uses of this variant, the player that wins the first turn can choose to play that roll or roll both of his dice. This allows the possibility of doubles for the first moves of the games and gives the player that wins the added advantage.
Beaver For this variant, the player that is doubled can accept, redouble and retain possession of the cube, if he does so before the doubling player rolls. The beaver doesn't make sense for players who know the proper double strategy because a player should normally have more than a 70% chance of winning the game to double. The doubled player would be crazy to redouble with less than a 30% chance of winning the game.
Play Craps Online – Fast, Easy, Fun & Great Odds
Playing craps online is fast moving fun and exciting game, with surprisingly good odds for a game of chance and the house edge is far less than in roulette for example.
Many novice players are put off playing craps online, as it appears to be complicated the reality however is craps is actually an easy game play.
So let’s look at how to play craps online and how you can pile up some nice profits by playing the bets with the best odds of success.
Playing craps online rules
When you are rolling the dice you are the "shooter". Your first toss in a round of Craps is called the Come Out roll.
If you roll a 7 or 11, you win and the round is finished before it has started.
If you roll 2, 3, or 12 that's a Craps and you lose and just like the example above the game is over.
Any other number becomes the Point. The purpose of the Come Out roll is to set the Point, which can be any of 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 or 10.
The Dealer puts a puck marked "On" above the Point number place on the table.
Playing craps online Objective of the Game
The basic objective in Craps is for the shooter to win by tossing the Point again before he tosses a 7. That 7 are called Out 7 to differentiate it from the 7 on the Come Out roll.
If the Point is tossed, the shooter and his fellow bettors win and the round is over.
If the shooter tosses Out 7, they lose and the round is over. If the toss is not the Point or the Out 7, the round carries on and the dice continue to roll.
Playing craps online betting and payoffs
When playing craps online, you will see a lot of bets but only one good one and that’s the bet top focus on, as it has the best odds of success of any game of chance.
Pass bets
The simplest bet is a Pass bet.
It is placed on the Pass Line before the Come Out roll.
If the round goes past the Come Out roll, the player is betting on the chance that they roll the Point again before they roll an Out 7. Pass bets win at odds of 1:1.
Pass bets are generally betting with the shooter.
Pass bettors are referred to as betting "right". They are with the shooter in his attempt to win to the game.
Win: If on the Come Out roll if the dice show 7 or 11. Win on any subsequent roll if you roll the Point.
Lose: If on the Come Out roll if the dice are Craps (2, 3, or 12). Lose on any subsequent roll if it's an Out 7.
Don't Pass bets
A bet placed on the Don't Pass line is the mirror opposite of a Pass bet.
If the round goes past the Come Out roll, the player is betting that the shooter will roll Out 7 before making the Point.
In don't pass bets the player is betting against the shooter and this is called a "wrong" bet.
Win: If on the Come Out roll if the dice show Craps (2, 3 or 12). Win on any subsequent roll if it's an Out 7.
Lose: If on the Come Out roll of 7 or 11. Lose on any subsequent roll if it's the Point. Come/Don't Come bets
Come and Don't Come bets are the same as Pass and Don't Pass but they are placed while a round is in progress.
They are there for players who join the game and play craps online late and the same rules are relevant.
Win if the next roll is 7 or 11, lose if it's Craps. Otherwise the roll becomes the Come Point. Odds bets
An Odds bet is a backup bet on a Pass/Don't Pass/Come/Don't Come bet already on the table.
They're usually limited to two or three times (2x or 3x) the original bet and pay off at true odds:
The payoff and odds reflects the probability of the dice's roll and there's no additional house edge involved, which does not happen in these bets - original Pass/Don't Pass/Come/Don't Come bets.
Pass Odds / Come Odds payout 2:1 on a roll of 4 or 10, 3:2 on 5's and 9's, and 6:5 on 6's and 8's.
Don't Pass Odds / Don't Come Odds payout 1:2 on a roll of 4 or 10, 2:3 on 5's and 9's, 5:6 on 6's and 8's.
Other bets
Now for the rest of the table bets that include:
The Place Number bets and Proposition bets.
The odds against you here are woeful and if you play craps online you should not consider them unless you want to lose!
A Place Number bet is where players are betting that a specific number will roll before a 7 does, or vice versa.
These include the Place, Buy, Lay and Lose bets, the Big 6 and Big 8, and the Hard 4, Hard 6, Hard 8 and
Hard 10.
The Proposition bet is where the player bets that the next roll will be a specific number.
These include the 2, 3, 7, 11, and 12 bets, the Any Craps bet, the Field, Hop and Horn bets.
Playing craps online best bets
When playing craps online the bests to place are pass and don't pass bets.
These are the only bets you need unless you’re feeling lucky and want some fun on one of the other bets - Don't be tempted unless you’re playing for fun.
By playing the bets below with full odds you will have the house edge as small as it can be against you i.e you have the best odds you can when playing craps online.
Odds Bets
The craps odds bet is the best bet there is when playing craps online as there is no house edge. The bet is not listed on the craps layout (wonder why!) but this is the bet to play.
After a passline bet is made, the casino allows you to make an additional bet known as an odds bet.
This bet is placed behind your original passline bet on the table.
When a shooter makes his point, you are paid even money for your passline bet but you are paid the true odds for you odds bet.
If the point is 4 or 10 your win is paid 2 to 1.
If the point is 5 or 9 your win is paid 3 to 2.
If the point is 6 or 8 your win is paid 6 to 5.
Most online casinos also allow you to take double odds on your passline bet.
For example, if you put $40 on the passline, you would be able to place an odds bet of double i.e. $80. The passline bets house edge is 1.41%.
When you place an additional odds bet, you lower the house edge on your passline bet.
A passline bet with single odds has a house edge of 0.85% and with double odds the edge is further to just 0.61%
Playing craps online Best Bets
When playing craps online there really are only two bets to focus on as we said before that have great odds and they are:
For right bettors are pass and come bets with full odds on both.
For wrong bettors are don't pass and don't come with full odds on both.
Craps good odds for a game of chance
When playing craps online for the first time you may be confused by the number of options open to you but as you will have seen above there is really only one good way to bet.
Dice games have fascinated man for centuries, we all love the excitement and fun they provide. With the rise of online casinos and the chance to play craps online, more players than ever are discovering the unique thrill a game of craps provides.
Many novice players are put off playing craps online, as it appears to be complicated the reality however is craps is actually an easy game play.
So let’s look at how to play craps online and how you can pile up some nice profits by playing the bets with the best odds of success.
Playing craps online rules
When you are rolling the dice you are the "shooter". Your first toss in a round of Craps is called the Come Out roll.
If you roll a 7 or 11, you win and the round is finished before it has started.
If you roll 2, 3, or 12 that's a Craps and you lose and just like the example above the game is over.
Any other number becomes the Point. The purpose of the Come Out roll is to set the Point, which can be any of 4, 5, 6, 8, 9 or 10.
The Dealer puts a puck marked "On" above the Point number place on the table.
Playing craps online Objective of the Game
The basic objective in Craps is for the shooter to win by tossing the Point again before he tosses a 7. That 7 are called Out 7 to differentiate it from the 7 on the Come Out roll.
If the Point is tossed, the shooter and his fellow bettors win and the round is over.
If the shooter tosses Out 7, they lose and the round is over. If the toss is not the Point or the Out 7, the round carries on and the dice continue to roll.
Playing craps online betting and payoffs
When playing craps online, you will see a lot of bets but only one good one and that’s the bet top focus on, as it has the best odds of success of any game of chance.
Pass bets
The simplest bet is a Pass bet.
It is placed on the Pass Line before the Come Out roll.
If the round goes past the Come Out roll, the player is betting on the chance that they roll the Point again before they roll an Out 7. Pass bets win at odds of 1:1.
Pass bets are generally betting with the shooter.
Pass bettors are referred to as betting "right". They are with the shooter in his attempt to win to the game.
Win: If on the Come Out roll if the dice show 7 or 11. Win on any subsequent roll if you roll the Point.
Lose: If on the Come Out roll if the dice are Craps (2, 3, or 12). Lose on any subsequent roll if it's an Out 7.
Don't Pass bets
A bet placed on the Don't Pass line is the mirror opposite of a Pass bet.
If the round goes past the Come Out roll, the player is betting that the shooter will roll Out 7 before making the Point.
In don't pass bets the player is betting against the shooter and this is called a "wrong" bet.
Win: If on the Come Out roll if the dice show Craps (2, 3 or 12). Win on any subsequent roll if it's an Out 7.
Lose: If on the Come Out roll of 7 or 11. Lose on any subsequent roll if it's the Point. Come/Don't Come bets
Come and Don't Come bets are the same as Pass and Don't Pass but they are placed while a round is in progress.
They are there for players who join the game and play craps online late and the same rules are relevant.
Win if the next roll is 7 or 11, lose if it's Craps. Otherwise the roll becomes the Come Point. Odds bets
An Odds bet is a backup bet on a Pass/Don't Pass/Come/Don't Come bet already on the table.
They're usually limited to two or three times (2x or 3x) the original bet and pay off at true odds:
The payoff and odds reflects the probability of the dice's roll and there's no additional house edge involved, which does not happen in these bets - original Pass/Don't Pass/Come/Don't Come bets.
Pass Odds / Come Odds payout 2:1 on a roll of 4 or 10, 3:2 on 5's and 9's, and 6:5 on 6's and 8's.
Don't Pass Odds / Don't Come Odds payout 1:2 on a roll of 4 or 10, 2:3 on 5's and 9's, 5:6 on 6's and 8's.
Other bets
Now for the rest of the table bets that include:
The Place Number bets and Proposition bets.
The odds against you here are woeful and if you play craps online you should not consider them unless you want to lose!
A Place Number bet is where players are betting that a specific number will roll before a 7 does, or vice versa.
These include the Place, Buy, Lay and Lose bets, the Big 6 and Big 8, and the Hard 4, Hard 6, Hard 8 and
Hard 10.
The Proposition bet is where the player bets that the next roll will be a specific number.
These include the 2, 3, 7, 11, and 12 bets, the Any Craps bet, the Field, Hop and Horn bets.
Playing craps online best bets
When playing craps online the bests to place are pass and don't pass bets.
These are the only bets you need unless you’re feeling lucky and want some fun on one of the other bets - Don't be tempted unless you’re playing for fun.
By playing the bets below with full odds you will have the house edge as small as it can be against you i.e you have the best odds you can when playing craps online.
Odds Bets
The craps odds bet is the best bet there is when playing craps online as there is no house edge. The bet is not listed on the craps layout (wonder why!) but this is the bet to play.
After a passline bet is made, the casino allows you to make an additional bet known as an odds bet.
This bet is placed behind your original passline bet on the table.
When a shooter makes his point, you are paid even money for your passline bet but you are paid the true odds for you odds bet.
If the point is 4 or 10 your win is paid 2 to 1.
If the point is 5 or 9 your win is paid 3 to 2.
If the point is 6 or 8 your win is paid 6 to 5.
Most online casinos also allow you to take double odds on your passline bet.
For example, if you put $40 on the passline, you would be able to place an odds bet of double i.e. $80. The passline bets house edge is 1.41%.
When you place an additional odds bet, you lower the house edge on your passline bet.
A passline bet with single odds has a house edge of 0.85% and with double odds the edge is further to just 0.61%
Playing craps online Best Bets
When playing craps online there really are only two bets to focus on as we said before that have great odds and they are:
For right bettors are pass and come bets with full odds on both.
For wrong bettors are don't pass and don't come with full odds on both.
Craps good odds for a game of chance
When playing craps online for the first time you may be confused by the number of options open to you but as you will have seen above there is really only one good way to bet.
Dice games have fascinated man for centuries, we all love the excitement and fun they provide. With the rise of online casinos and the chance to play craps online, more players than ever are discovering the unique thrill a game of craps provides.
New Rebate Program Lowers the Cost of HD Radios
HD Radio is just the next big thing -- broadcast radio like you've never heard it. HD Radio makes AM sound like today's FM and FM sound like you were listening to a CD. It's pure, crystal-clear sound and it's free -- all you need to do is buy a new radio.
Speaking of which, iBiquity Digital Corp. recently announced a new program that offers a $25 or $50 rebate when you buy a new digital HD radio.
Here’s how the program works: All you have to do is purchase an HD Radio, receiver tuner or car connector between now and January 14, 2007 and you will receive a $25 or $50 rebate.
The $25 rebate applies to the following products: Accurian (HDTTR), Denon (SPK-559), DICE (HD-BMW-T), DICE (HD-Toyota), DICE (HD-GM-R), DICE (HD-Honda), Directed (DMHD-1000), JVC (KTC-HR100TR), Metra (AHDT-01, Peripheral (PHDR2), and Sangeon (HDT-1 Component HD Radio Tuner).
The $50 rebate applies to these units: ADA (Suite 8100 Receiver) with HD-1 module; ADA (TuneSuite Duo Tune AM/FM Tuner) with HD-1 Module; ADA (Tune Suite Quadritune) with HDM-1 Module; Alpine (DVA-9985),;Alpine (TUA-T500); Boston Acoustics (Recepter Radio HD); Cambridge SoundWorks Radio (820HD); Cambridge SoundWorks Tuner (850HD); Directed (DHHD-1000; Integra (TUN3-7) with C-HDXHD Radio Card; Integra (DTR 10.5) with C-HDX HD Radio Card; Integra (Onkyo NR 1000) with C-HDXM MD Radio Card; Niles Audio (IntelliControl) with ICSTM-DR/R; Panasonic (CQ-CB890iU); Polk Audio (I-Sonic Entertainment System); (Radiosophy MultiStream HD); Rotel (RT-1084); and the Sangeon (HDR-1) Tabletop Radio.
To receive our rebate, you will need to download the rebate certificate from iBiquity (http://www.hdradio.com/i/hdradio_rebate_certificate.pdf), fill it out and mail it, along with the original UPC from the radio product package and the original sales receipt with eligible product card.
So, happy shopping and get ready to save!
Speaking of which, iBiquity Digital Corp. recently announced a new program that offers a $25 or $50 rebate when you buy a new digital HD radio.
Here’s how the program works: All you have to do is purchase an HD Radio, receiver tuner or car connector between now and January 14, 2007 and you will receive a $25 or $50 rebate.
The $25 rebate applies to the following products: Accurian (HDTTR), Denon (SPK-559), DICE (HD-BMW-T), DICE (HD-Toyota), DICE (HD-GM-R), DICE (HD-Honda), Directed (DMHD-1000), JVC (KTC-HR100TR), Metra (AHDT-01, Peripheral (PHDR2), and Sangeon (HDT-1 Component HD Radio Tuner).
The $50 rebate applies to these units: ADA (Suite 8100 Receiver) with HD-1 module; ADA (TuneSuite Duo Tune AM/FM Tuner) with HD-1 Module; ADA (Tune Suite Quadritune) with HDM-1 Module; Alpine (DVA-9985),;Alpine (TUA-T500); Boston Acoustics (Recepter Radio HD); Cambridge SoundWorks Radio (820HD); Cambridge SoundWorks Tuner (850HD); Directed (DHHD-1000; Integra (TUN3-7) with C-HDXHD Radio Card; Integra (DTR 10.5) with C-HDX HD Radio Card; Integra (Onkyo NR 1000) with C-HDXM MD Radio Card; Niles Audio (IntelliControl) with ICSTM-DR/R; Panasonic (CQ-CB890iU); Polk Audio (I-Sonic Entertainment System); (Radiosophy MultiStream HD); Rotel (RT-1084); and the Sangeon (HDR-1) Tabletop Radio.
To receive our rebate, you will need to download the rebate certificate from iBiquity (http://www.hdradio.com/i/hdradio_rebate_certificate.pdf), fill it out and mail it, along with the original UPC from the radio product package and the original sales receipt with eligible product card.
So, happy shopping and get ready to save!
Backgammon is Thought to be the Oldest Game in the World
Backgammon is thought to be the oldest game in the world, and archaeologists have found backgammon sets that date from as long ago as 3,000 BC. It is a classic game of luck combined with strategy, as you must roll dice and then choose how best to move. The great thing about backgammon is that the rules are simple to explain, but mastering the game can take a lifetime. Unlike chess, the game is also quick to pick up and play, with games often lasting only a few minutes.
Basically, there are two sides on a backgammon board, each with twelve spaces, for a total of twenty-four spaces. These spaces are numbered from 1 to 24 in opposite directions for the two players, so player one’s space 1 is player two’s space 24, and so on. Where each players’ counters (checkers) are placed varies depending on the rules being used, but a common configuration is five on 6 and 13, three on 8, and two on 24.
To begin the game, you each roll one of the dice, and the player who rolls the highest gets the first turn using the numbers from both dice. The rule is that each number is a move, so if you roll a one and a six, you can move one checker one space and one checker six spaces.
This is where it starts to get a bit complicated, but stick with it. When you’re deciding which checker to move and where, you have to consider which moves are allowed. Your checkers can only move to spaces that have no checkers, only your checkers, or only one of your opponent’s checkers – you cannot move to any space that has two or more of your opponent’s checkers. However, if you land on a space where your opponent has only one checker, you have taken it and can put it on the ‘bar’ in the middle of the board. The bar counts as ‘space zero’ for dice rolls, and any checkers there must be moved before the others can be.
Basically, there are two sides on a backgammon board, each with twelve spaces, for a total of twenty-four spaces. These spaces are numbered from 1 to 24 in opposite directions for the two players, so player one’s space 1 is player two’s space 24, and so on. Where each players’ counters (checkers) are placed varies depending on the rules being used, but a common configuration is five on 6 and 13, three on 8, and two on 24.
To begin the game, you each roll one of the dice, and the player who rolls the highest gets the first turn using the numbers from both dice. The rule is that each number is a move, so if you roll a one and a six, you can move one checker one space and one checker six spaces.
This is where it starts to get a bit complicated, but stick with it. When you’re deciding which checker to move and where, you have to consider which moves are allowed. Your checkers can only move to spaces that have no checkers, only your checkers, or only one of your opponent’s checkers – you cannot move to any space that has two or more of your opponent’s checkers. However, if you land on a space where your opponent has only one checker, you have taken it and can put it on the ‘bar’ in the middle of the board. The bar counts as ‘space zero’ for dice rolls, and any checkers there must be moved before the others can be.
Sunday, February 4, 2007
Dice game is too costly
Fifteen million a year? Please. If [Matsuzaka] and [Scott Boras] are still asking for that today, the Sox have one choice and one choice only. They should help Matsuzaka pack his bags, call him a cab, then drop him off on the street corner before they board owner John Henry's private jet back to Boston. Matsuzaka can go back to Japan, back to the Seibu Lions, who paid him roughly $2.75 million last year to dominate a second-rate league.
Somehow, somewhere along the line, a funny thing happened in these negotiations between Matsuzaka and the Red Sox: the tail started wagging the dog, the Red Sox started acting like the the ones that had something to prove. Boras is a brilliant negotiator and a master at leverage, and the Red Sox somehow came to believe that it was their responsibility to convince Matsuzaka to pitch for them.
Let's rewind here for a moment. The Red Sox did not create these rules. They simply have played by them. Through agreement between baseball officials from Major League Baseball and Japan, the Red Sox competed in an auction for Matsuzaka's rights. They won that auction. They have since engaged in discussion with Boras, who wants to treat Matsuzaka as if he were Barry Zito.
Somehow, somewhere along the line, a funny thing happened in these negotiations between Matsuzaka and the Red Sox: the tail started wagging the dog, the Red Sox started acting like the the ones that had something to prove. Boras is a brilliant negotiator and a master at leverage, and the Red Sox somehow came to believe that it was their responsibility to convince Matsuzaka to pitch for them.
Let's rewind here for a moment. The Red Sox did not create these rules. They simply have played by them. Through agreement between baseball officials from Major League Baseball and Japan, the Red Sox competed in an auction for Matsuzaka's rights. They won that auction. They have since engaged in discussion with Boras, who wants to treat Matsuzaka as if he were Barry Zito.
Rollplay: The Musical Dice Game
Practicing scales is dull. This “game” won't change that.
Rollplay is promoted by creator Marcus Wolfe as a musical dice game that helps teach beginning to advanced scales. In reality it's a basic summary of scales and exercises where the “game” is basically rolling three dice to determine what key, scale and type of drill will be practiced.
The twelve-sided die might dictate a scale of F, for example, while the eight-sided die might indicate a melodic minor scale and the six-sided die results in playing this progression in thirds. As entertainment, it's safe to say this isn't anything close to matching the need to play proper notes on drums, guitars and other virtual instruments in order to guide characters through video games such as Nintendo's Donkey Conga.
Strictly as a learning tool it also comes up short. With only eight scale options there's glaring omissions in what's supposed to be an advanced learning tool, such as no blues or fourth scales. A person can't expect everything to be covered in 32 pages of text, but there are plenty of books of similar size and price ($20; replacement dice are $10) surpassing this one for usefulness. There's no mention of the character of scales or inversions, for example, things that seem to appear near the beginning of many texts. The book does list the notes for some scales in all keys, and offers a couple of basic articulation and rhythm drills, but hardly feels like a comprehensive learning tool for many of the areas it touches upon.
Wolfe, in an e-mail, says his book isn't intended to be an “end-all-be-all” resource: “The shortcoming of these books is that a student is so overwhelmed by all the information that they never do anything with it. What they need is a way to work through the ESSENTIAL material that will provide them with a technical proficiency in musical language.” As for the omission of certain scale types, he says “99 percent of all the chords that we run across in jazz music even in tunes by advanced composers like Wayne Shorter get their chords from modes of the major, harmonic minor, and jazz melodic minor scales.”
“It is not a source of entertainment that would be a good substitute for a video game,” he adds. “However, if you are a serious student of music at a college level or advanced high school, this is a game and a system of organization that can help you work through the requisite material.”
Maybe, but the fact remains this is promoted to consumers as a game, which is bound to disappoint any number of kids who get it as a present from a well-meaning purchaser. In a brief listing of “other ideas” at the end it notes Mozart “composed six segments of a minuet and player would roll a six-sided die to see what the order would be.” Even a minimal amount of additional creative thinking along those lines for this book might have produced something approaching fun.
Rollplay is promoted by creator Marcus Wolfe as a musical dice game that helps teach beginning to advanced scales. In reality it's a basic summary of scales and exercises where the “game” is basically rolling three dice to determine what key, scale and type of drill will be practiced.
The twelve-sided die might dictate a scale of F, for example, while the eight-sided die might indicate a melodic minor scale and the six-sided die results in playing this progression in thirds. As entertainment, it's safe to say this isn't anything close to matching the need to play proper notes on drums, guitars and other virtual instruments in order to guide characters through video games such as Nintendo's Donkey Conga.
Strictly as a learning tool it also comes up short. With only eight scale options there's glaring omissions in what's supposed to be an advanced learning tool, such as no blues or fourth scales. A person can't expect everything to be covered in 32 pages of text, but there are plenty of books of similar size and price ($20; replacement dice are $10) surpassing this one for usefulness. There's no mention of the character of scales or inversions, for example, things that seem to appear near the beginning of many texts. The book does list the notes for some scales in all keys, and offers a couple of basic articulation and rhythm drills, but hardly feels like a comprehensive learning tool for many of the areas it touches upon.
Wolfe, in an e-mail, says his book isn't intended to be an “end-all-be-all” resource: “The shortcoming of these books is that a student is so overwhelmed by all the information that they never do anything with it. What they need is a way to work through the ESSENTIAL material that will provide them with a technical proficiency in musical language.” As for the omission of certain scale types, he says “99 percent of all the chords that we run across in jazz music even in tunes by advanced composers like Wayne Shorter get their chords from modes of the major, harmonic minor, and jazz melodic minor scales.”
“It is not a source of entertainment that would be a good substitute for a video game,” he adds. “However, if you are a serious student of music at a college level or advanced high school, this is a game and a system of organization that can help you work through the requisite material.”
Maybe, but the fact remains this is promoted to consumers as a game, which is bound to disappoint any number of kids who get it as a present from a well-meaning purchaser. In a brief listing of “other ideas” at the end it notes Mozart “composed six segments of a minuet and player would roll a six-sided die to see what the order would be.” Even a minimal amount of additional creative thinking along those lines for this book might have produced something approaching fun.
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